Whats this worth? Can anyone do me a small Favor?
I am looking at a 1985 D25 Custom. Guy says it has real 54,000 miles and it looks like it, but could also be 155,000. Its an ex-town truck that is not beat, but certainly needs a paint job and a few small dings taken out. The town is small, so it's not like a city truck or a rural town truck that has a million miles on it.
Gas pedal looks like 50k miles. Not new not worn through.
The frame looks like you could eat off of it and the shocks sit nice.
Doesn't leak a drop and has a pretty new set of Kumho's on it.
The oil change sticker says change due at 56k on dec 2010.
Any ball parks on value? Interior is simple, but clean.
Can anyone run me a carfax?? Please?
vin is 1B7JD24T0FS700963
Many thanks in advance.
Gas pedal looks like 50k miles. Not new not worn through.
The frame looks like you could eat off of it and the shocks sit nice.
Doesn't leak a drop and has a pretty new set of Kumho's on it.
The oil change sticker says change due at 56k on dec 2010.
Any ball parks on value? Interior is simple, but clean.
Can anyone run me a carfax?? Please?
vin is 1B7JD24T0FS700963
Many thanks in advance.
Yeah, people now think that below average miles makes something worth a ton....not so. IF it was in perfect condition needing nothing, it would be worth 4 grand, in the described condition, I am going to say 2500 tops.
NO. Those are long gone. The 633 was a 5 speed and was a demon. THe 2002 drove a little like a volvo 240.
So to be honest with you all. I'm buying this to sell immediately.
Once or twice a year I pick up a car cheap wash it, touch it up a little, fix a few things and and sell it.
Sometimes I may $100 sometimes I make $1000.
This one I has side toolboxes and large overhead lumber pipe rack.
I'm not sure if I should give the toolboxes and rack a quick sand and rustoleum job. Paint the inside of the bed black. Replace one bum tire and sell it.
Or if I should pull the racks and boxes. and sell it.
As a work truck it might fetch just as much as if i pulled them and it sold to a pick up truck guy.
Carfax seems to prove that it has actual 50,000 miles.
Looking on craigslist it seems either way it will sell for at least $2000.
I'm getting it for under $1000.
If I can sell it without switching titles I (the seller just signs the title and hands it to me) I can save $120. Or make $120 more.
If I pull the boxes and rack I need to drive it to the scrap yard to get rid of them.
What do ya'll think.
My son wants me to add abunch of smiley face guys on here so ... here goes.

Once or twice a year I pick up a car cheap wash it, touch it up a little, fix a few things and and sell it.
Sometimes I may $100 sometimes I make $1000.
This one I has side toolboxes and large overhead lumber pipe rack.
I'm not sure if I should give the toolboxes and rack a quick sand and rustoleum job. Paint the inside of the bed black. Replace one bum tire and sell it.
Or if I should pull the racks and boxes. and sell it.
As a work truck it might fetch just as much as if i pulled them and it sold to a pick up truck guy.
Carfax seems to prove that it has actual 50,000 miles.
Looking on craigslist it seems either way it will sell for at least $2000.
I'm getting it for under $1000.
If I can sell it without switching titles I (the seller just signs the title and hands it to me) I can save $120. Or make $120 more.
If I pull the boxes and rack I need to drive it to the scrap yard to get rid of them.
What do ya'll think.
My son wants me to add abunch of smiley face guys on here so ... here goes.
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Why don't you sell the boxes and rack additionally? You figure, it could be the heaviest toolboxes in the world, and be 800 lbs, and you'd still only scrap them for $100 if your local prices are anything like mine. I'd use them as leverage to sell the truck quicker/for more, and if the buyer doesn't take them, I'd clean them up and list them separately.
What state are you in? I know that in PA, you can get screwed over if you try to avoid a title transfer like that. The title is supposed to be signed by the seller in front of a notary at the time of sale. Or at least that's what the notary told me when I tried to buy a 74 cj5 with a pre-signed title. If you have your own "cool" notary, I could see it not being much of a problem though. But as a buyer, I'd be suspicious of it.
What state are you in? I know that in PA, you can get screwed over if you try to avoid a title transfer like that. The title is supposed to be signed by the seller in front of a notary at the time of sale. Or at least that's what the notary told me when I tried to buy a 74 cj5 with a pre-signed title. If you have your own "cool" notary, I could see it not being much of a problem though. But as a buyer, I'd be suspicious of it.
I'm in NJ. We don't need to do the notory thing, but I remember having to do that when I bought a bike when I lived in Erie, PA in 1995.
The boxes and the racks are would be something that a working man would want, so spending two hours doing a quick prep and another two hours painting them would pay off.
If I do that and touch up the little dings of spot rust on it, I should be able to get $2500 easy.
Which would be a blessing because I really need to pay my mortgage.
Frankly, this vehicle is likely going to appeal to a tradesmen more than to some kid or collector. I do like the looks of it though. If it were an extended cab with 4x4 I would be keeping it.
The tailgate doesn't open. I guess the first thing to do would be to spray the latches with some penetrating oil, but my gut tells me thats it's inside. Any tips on that.
The boxes and the racks are would be something that a working man would want, so spending two hours doing a quick prep and another two hours painting them would pay off.
If I do that and touch up the little dings of spot rust on it, I should be able to get $2500 easy.
Which would be a blessing because I really need to pay my mortgage.
Frankly, this vehicle is likely going to appeal to a tradesmen more than to some kid or collector. I do like the looks of it though. If it were an extended cab with 4x4 I would be keeping it.
The tailgate doesn't open. I guess the first thing to do would be to spray the latches with some penetrating oil, but my gut tells me thats it's inside. Any tips on that.
the plastic clips that hold the rods in most likely broke. if you can get the 3 bolts out of the handle and pull the handle you should be able to fix it with some tie wire. i fixed mine over 2 years ago and it is still holding but you may be able to buy the plastic clips at the parts store.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-10470-703-235.aspx
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-27077-703-236.aspx

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-10470-703-235.aspx
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-27077-703-236.aspx





