Although the body still looks pretty good, and the PO never took the truck out in the wild, this thing has its share of rust on the frame and hardware underneath. I have seen much worse though. I'm still thinking about blasting it and coating it, when I finish this project.

Buttoned the front end up last night and put the wheels on. Got all the bolts and such tightened up when I got home today. Still have not swapped Pitman arms out. I'm seeing steering fluid drip just a little off the steering box. Can't tell for sure, but it looks like it's coming out of the seal on the end where the shaft goes in. I'm going to get another set of eyes to look at it, but I'm thinking I may have to swap the box out. If so, I'll do it after the lift is finished, and get the pitman swap then.

Measured before and after on the front; 34 5/8" on both sides up front before, 39 1/8" on both sides after.

After tightening up the front end, I got a good start on the rear end today. All of the passenger side is off and ready for replacement. Ended up cutting the u-bolts off; I've been hitting them w/ PB Blaster for over 2 weeks now, but still, only one nut came off.

Still taking pictures, and will post them all when I finish up.

 

Got the leaf installed on rear passenger side and started driver side rear. Of ALL the places for a gas tank to be, it had to be blocking access to the front eyebolt on this spring. Bolt also happens to be welded to the spring eye. Had to drop the gas tank to get access to be able to pull the old bolt and push the new one through. Well, since the tank is down, and my fuel gauge does not work too well, I will take the opportunity to replace the sending unit. Ended up pulling the muffler out today also. It, and much of the pipe, is rusting out, and it was in the way to drop the gas tank. Guess dual exhaust is coming sooner, rather than later . My Pap and a nephew dropped by, and helped drop the gas tank, and he looked at the steering box. We both think the box is the source of the steering fluid leak I've been seeing; looks like fresh fluid coming from the seal before the shaft.

Wish I could take 2 or 3 days off to get after this; seems like it's going to take till duck season to get this sucker buttoned up, doing it a couple of hours every 2 or 3 days.

 

that is the way things work which is why i try and tackle small projects 1 at a time. i could have told you your input shaft seal was leaking. it is one of the most common seals on the steering box to start leaking. i know i have been meaning to fix mine but slow getting around to it. got all the parts to do it just haven't want to. currently working on rebuilding a carb for the engine.

 

I hear you, and generally would do the same in taking one small project at a time. It IS kind of fun though, and the further along I get with the suspension project, the more I think of to do with the truck!

While this is taking me a lot longer than I had expected, free time is my biggest obstacle on the truck. Most of my weekends have not been free, and taking time off at work has not been an option this summer. I think I could definitely do this in a few days or so, if I had some help for a good chunk of the time, and was a little more organized. When I decided to try this on my own, I really had no idea what it would take. I would definitely do it again. I'd love to pick up a Ramcharger to do as a project.

 

Nearly done and ready to go to the shop for alignment. Still a few things to work out though.

I went ahead and dumped what little fuel was in the tank, cleaned the outside, and then cleaned the inside. I think I found the issue with faulty tank level readings, too. The metal, outside frame that the assembly slides up and down on, with screws on the slots on both sides, had one side pretty bent, and I don't think we did it pulling the tank. One of the screws was out of its slot. I took them out and bent the metal back and replaced the screws, but it still does not slide as freely as I think it should. The fuel filter is on the bottom of this assembly, not in-line on the frame rail. I bought a new, Bosch pump/filter assembly that should be here next week. The fuel neck gasket is not looking good either, and I may replace it. Anyone know if it requires a special tool to install into the tank? Advance Auto had this pump for $298, local. Rock Auto had it for $166. I was going to order it, but checked my local NAPA guy, and he got it for me at $166.

Either Skyjacker packed it wrong, or Rocky Mountain ordered wrong, but they sent the wrong rear shocks. It was one digit off what Skyjacker showed for the kit on-line, but I figured they went to a new shock part#, so didn't give it much thought. But when I put the bushings together and went to stick the first one on, it was 2" or so short of the bottom mount, fully extended. Yikes! Figured I'd screwed up remounting the rear shackles or something. Got my packing slip/invoice and went to Skyjacker website, and found that it WAS the wrong shock. Will get replacements called in Monday.

Pitman arm replacement. First of all, the Skyjacker instructions should tell you to swap these out BEFORE you put your new front springs in, on this model truck. Too late now, and I did NOT want to take the front spring off the driver's side and remount again! I'd picked up a Pitman arm puller from O'Reilleys, on their loaner program. Never paid attention to it till this week, when I went to actually use it. It had a mushroomed head on the "screw", so no socket or closed-end wrench could be used at all. Tried doing it with an open-end wrench, but when I got it tight, and tried pulling more, the wrench ends began flexing. Took it back last night, and I got a puller that a socket or closed-end wrench would go over. Been spraying w/ PB Blaster too. I'd get it tight, whack with a small sledge, and spray w/ PB Blaster. In 30 minutes, it was off. "Cool", I thought; this is easier than expected. Cleaned off the grooves and threads, and put the new Pitman arm up. WHAT!!!! It won't go!!!! NOOOOOOOO!!!!!! The new drop arms are very stoutly made by Skyjacker, and the OD of the end that goes on the gear box is about 1/8" to 1/4" bigger than the OEM. Not enough room. Will ask Skyjacker about grinding it down to fit, with play around the outside, or another arm, when call about the rear shocks on Monday.

Once these items are attended to, the truck is on the road to the shop for alignment, and then on to the exhaust shop.

It looks REAL good with the lift!


Stoopid question, but I'm asking anyway; does it matter which end is up, when installing shocks??? On the front end, the large, barrel end had to go on the up side; the new springs gave no room to install with the barrel end down.

 

All done, except I'm still waiting for the store to get me my rear shocks. Had to have help getting the tank back up and secured this morning, then drove it out of the shop; first time it's been driven in a while!

Got the pitman arm ground down for clearance by a local shop, and he charged me nothing; pretty nice. Everything bolted back up nicely. With the truck running, we cycled the steering wheel lock-to-lock, and I saw no issues there, nor any binding on the axles as it pulled out of the shop. But...2 problems became immediately apparent.
#1-gas leak. I should have gone with my gut; when I dropped the gas tank to reach the front eyebolt of the rear spring, I knew I was going to clean things up before replacing. Even replaced fuel pump assembly. First thought was to not only replace clamps on all hoses, but also replace those hoses. But, I let it go and figured all was well. WRONG!!! The main rubber fuel line coming off the pump to the metal line on the rail has started falling apart and dumping gas. Will pull the rubber line and clip and replace it and anything else that does not look good, like I SHOULD have.
#2- coolant leak popped up. Never noticed this before, even when parking it in the shop this summer. After I got it started, my BIL was watching under the frame for gas, and saw a decent leak behind the motor. We crawled around and found it was coolant, and dripping from somewhere off the back of the motor, and dripping off the bell housing. This motor has not been running hot, and I just had the radiator pulled and cleaned this spring, and everything else cleaned out. New coolant mix in, and no problems running this summer. Pulled the dipstick, and the oil looks good. Is there a freeze plug back in the rear of the block??? Hmmm.

Once I get fuel hose in, I will make sure coolant levels are okay, and then I have an appointment next Thursday to get an alignment. This guy is also putting a new steering gear box and my Borgeson shaft on-I've been working 70+ hour weeks all month, and just don't have time to do it, and I'm ready to drive it again, if I can find and fix my coolant leak.

The truck looks real good with its new stance. A set of 35's would make it even better; maybe Santa can help. Will do a summary, with some pics, when work lets up on me. All in all, pretty engaging and enjoyable project, and I'd do it DYI again, especially since I have all the tools in the shop to make it happen (still need to upgrade compressor though and get my own air ratchet).

 

Got to the shop today for alignment and Borgeson shaft and new gear box for steering. All went well there, but need new tie rods soon. Also found when pulling out of the barn that I have about one less left turn steering round than before. Might be because of the shims on the new front leafs, and the new axle angle. Will be calling Skyjacker tomorrow to inquire about use of an adjustable drag link. Truck did real well on the drive to the alignment shop, but it was pretty tense crossing the new bridge across the Tennessee River this morning!!

Next stop is the muffler shop. Then maybe look at new wheels and some 35" tires to go with the new lift. Guys at the alignment shop liked the lift.

Also, what is the best brand for tie rods???

 

We're going to need pictures, good sir.

As far as the tie rods, the best I can think of off hand is Moog. But I know that is for 2nd gen Rams, dunno if it matters for 1st genners.

 

That is what I have read, also. Guy at the alignment shop also said go with Moog, if $$ was not a factor.

Picked the truck up after work today. Drove pretty decent; not exactly the same feel as before getting new springs on front. Got the adjustable drag link ordered today, and will get tie rod ends tomorrow or Monday.

I did not take as many pics during the job as I wanted, but got some, at various points. Will try to round them up and post soon, along with a brief review of what I did for this job.