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Help intake manifold question

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  #11  
Old 07-30-2013, 10:23 PM
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that looks like it would be a ok carb for your engine. it is a bit large but not too way to large.
this is the intake that would most likely work best on a truck.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2186
 
  #12  
Old 07-30-2013, 10:26 PM
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mmmm.


Must remember that combination.
 
  #13  
Old 07-31-2013, 05:40 AM
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As far as an intake, you want a dual plane manifold such as the one CW linked or the Edelbrock Performer RPM:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...iew/make/dodge

With regards to your carb, you may still need to tune it for your application. From the factory they come with a "standard" one-size fit's all type of tune. You may need to re-jet the carb, reset the mixture, change the metering rods, etc. to get it to run right on your application.

For your carb, here is the Edelbrock metering reference chart:
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...826_charts.pdf
 

Last edited by sls001; 07-31-2013 at 05:41 AM. Reason: update
  #14  
Old 08-02-2013, 09:46 PM
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as we all know Edelbrock does NOT know how correctly jet a carb. when rejeting change ONLY the jets OR rods at a time. NOT both. the Edelbrock rods are sized with to many with the step to large. use the smaller steps. if you check out the rods used by chrysler had smaller steps. what i just listed aplays to chrysler AFBs in the factory horsepower range. at much higher horsepower ranges may need different rods
 
  #15  
Old 08-03-2013, 12:29 AM
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okay well heres a rookie mistake..

when i took the intake manifold off it only had the metal pan gasket part on so when i put new stuff on i guess.. i forgot to put the cork gasket on and just put the metal one on. and doing that theres a air leak. i guess u can say with the new set up i got the carb tuned perfect and the bogging from what the guy hopes it is from the missing gasket but im going to take it apart and re do it this time with my dad not my moron friend who kept loosing bolts and giving wrong parts to me when i asked haha but hey im learning its all about trial and error

well now i know ill be able to do it in half or even quarter the time to replace it. and if it bogs then i will go buy a new manifold.. (i know u guys are wanting to kick my *** for me doing all this work to take it off and then still put on the same intake on) i also found out today it has a "mild" cam (previous owners are the mechanics i go to) but nothing crazy they said
 
  #16  
Old 08-03-2013, 12:33 AM
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so i have 4 cork gaskets so i put on on bottom and then put metal gasket pan on then another cork is that how it works?
 
  #17  
Old 08-24-2013, 02:12 AM
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HELP! lol round 2 of re installing this time with cork gaskets aswell and found were there was a leak and made sure there was is enough so i put cork one down then pan gasket and then the other cork one with the silicon stuff. and put the intake manifold on and the bolts wont line up... one side willl and friggin the other side middle ones will not we tried for a hour trying to gett those in. what could be the problem? it fit before is it because there is to many gaskets or something causeing it not to line up anymore or engine kinda warm still maybe its expanded or something cause im only off by litterally a say a milimeter but bolts will not go in...
 
  #18  
Old 08-25-2013, 12:02 AM
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I tried to post earlier and obviously it didn't work. Anyways is it possible that you have too much silicone on the gaskets and thats causing a problem?

Don't feel bad about buying the wrong intake though I am almost positive that Edelbrock named that intake the Torker on purpose so that people would buy the wrong intake and then later on have to buy the performer to get the engine to do what they want.. ( If I were you when I bought a dual plane in the future it would be from someone other than edelbrock just so thier scam don't work on you)

The single plane intake you have will work on your motor, but you just might find that under 2500 rpm's the engine acts like a dog. Basically single planes were designed for racing applications where the engine is never below the rpm's that the intake starts making power. The big trick is deciding what you want the engine to do and getting the cam and intake and heads that work together to make it do that.

On another note seein as how you know the people who put the cam in ask them for the part number on it or the specs on it there is a billion different camshafts out there and one man's idea of a mild cam is another ones idea of a wild cam. I have a mild cam in a smallblock chevy that doesn't start working until about 3000 rpm's.. on the other hand I am thinking about putting a mild cam in the 380 in my truck that will start to work at just over 1000 rpm's. Good luck!
 



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