89 W150 front ball joint replacement
need some advice before i either make myself crazy, or make a costly error. i am replacing the ball joints on the passenger side of this truck, and while at it, thought i should do both sides.
my challenge is the hub removal. i think i want to remove the rotors in order to pull the axle assembly, but am unsure if i need to dis-assemble the automatic locking hubs, or can i leave them?
can i leave the rotor assembly intact and still get to the 4 bolts on the inside to drive out the bearing? it does not look like i have much room to get a socket in there.
lastly, i believe i need to remove the 4WD actuator in order to be able to remove the driver side axle, is that correct?
sorry for the long message, but I am having a tough time finding this info anywhere on the web, and I dont want to wait on a shop manual to be sent...if I can even find one.
Thanks in advance.
Charlie
my challenge is the hub removal. i think i want to remove the rotors in order to pull the axle assembly, but am unsure if i need to dis-assemble the automatic locking hubs, or can i leave them?
can i leave the rotor assembly intact and still get to the 4 bolts on the inside to drive out the bearing? it does not look like i have much room to get a socket in there.
lastly, i believe i need to remove the 4WD actuator in order to be able to remove the driver side axle, is that correct?
sorry for the long message, but I am having a tough time finding this info anywhere on the web, and I dont want to wait on a shop manual to be sent...if I can even find one.
Thanks in advance.
Charlie
You have to pull the axle shafts out, which means calipers, rotors, wheel bearings will have to come out. If you have the ability, an air hammer is insanely helpful. My truck had over 250K on the original ball joints and everything was rusted together. Air hammers are great at knocking stuff loose. My other piece of advice is to see if you can get your hands on one of the better ball joint tools, the ones that they loan out at auto parts stores are often really pathetic.
Thanks...guess there are no shortcuts in Dodgeland. realistically, it is probably best to repack everything anyway....i dont need to pull the diff do i? i think i can get away with just the access to the intermediate shaft thru the shift actuator.
thanks for the help MNfarmboy...ball joints complete, reassembling all else once the rain stops. Note to anyone reading this, press in the new ball joints doing the top one first if you are using the c-clamp type press. I did pull and paint the diff cover, looks way better. Thanks again.



