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Smog System Removal

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Old 04-07-2014, 04:42 PM
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Default Smog System Removal

My smog system has been crippled by a PO. I would like to remove it altogether instead of replace it. The truck is a 1987 Ramcharger with a 318 and automatic tranny. The vehicle is registered "historic" in my state and does not require inspection, I will be KEEPING a high flow catalytic converter, by the engine side emissions and vacuum stuff I want to remove over time.

As it site, the smog pump belt has been removed, the smog canister is melted (looks to be on purpose by PO). The pump is still attached and the plumping is still there, someone has just jammed a large carriage bolt into the hose and smashed it with a tube clamp (holy cr^&, what I said).

I want to remove the pump (should be easy) and remove the plumbing capping any holes in the "back of the motor" (seems really difficult), I was hoping not to have to pull the motor out to do this work, the truck sits rather high and I am not sure that I can find a cherry picker with a "tall" enough boom to pull the motor up and out (if you know of one, please tell me).
 
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:40 PM
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Welcome to DF. Will move you to the correct spot.

For future reference:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...ead-first.html
 
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Old 04-08-2014, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jasonw
Welcome to DF. Will move you to the correct spot.

For future reference:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...ead-first.html
Thanks, what section did I post in originally??? I thought I was in the 1st gen. tech. area.
 
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Old 04-10-2014, 09:33 PM
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The smog pump itself is simple enough to remove, but if I'm not mistaken some of the bolts run into the water jacket, so be ready with a catch pan or another bolt. The pipe that runs to the cat is simple to remove, although it can be a pita to pull it out with its awkward bends. The most people leave the piping to the back of the exhaust manifold and just cap/crimp the end. If you were to pull it out I'm not quite sure how you would cap it. I have a 6" lift with 33's on my truck and my cherry picker was big enough for my engine swap. I can't tell you the brand, all I know is my grandpa bought it sometime back in the late 70's or early 80's
 
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Old 04-11-2014, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by MNfarmboy
The smog pump itself is simple enough to remove, but if I'm not mistaken some of the bolts run into the water jacket, so be ready with a catch pan or another bolt. The pipe that runs to the cat is simple to remove, although it can be a pita to pull it out with its awkward bends. The most people leave the piping to the back of the exhaust manifold and just cap/crimp the end. If you were to pull it out I'm not quite sure how you would cap it. I have a 6" lift with 33's on my truck and my cherry picker was big enough for my engine swap. I can't tell you the brand, all I know is my grandpa bought it sometime back in the late 70's or early 80's
Sweet rig you have there. I did read about the bolts that go into the water jacket. Do you know if they just "enter" the water jacket or are they holding bolts for the water pump cover plate? I will probably just get some shorter bolts and plug up the holes.

I will remove the exhaust manifolds and weld a plug into the back of them. Or I May lose the manifolds and get some headers and go that route. I have never installed headers so I need to do some research on how the plumbing happen after they are installed.

- Thanks for the Post.
 
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:20 PM
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1 maybe 2 or the bolts that hold the smog pump on also serve the water pump and power steering pump. But you should just be able to remove them, as there are other bolts that hold the cover plate on. I have no experience with headers so I can't help you there. I still have to do something with the pipe to the back of the headers, it is currently an open pipe that just serves as a source of an exhaust leak.
 
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Old 04-15-2014, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by dennisonwj
My smog system has been crippled by a PO. I would like to remove it altogether instead of replace it. The truck is a 1987 Ramcharger with a 318 and automatic tranny. The vehicle is registered "historic" in my state and does not require inspection, I will be KEEPING a high flow catalytic converter, by the engine side emissions and vacuum stuff I want to remove over time.

As it site, the smog pump belt has been removed, the smog canister is melted (looks to be on purpose by PO). The pump is still attached and the plumping is still there, someone has just jammed a large carriage bolt into the hose and smashed it with a tube clamp (holy cr^&, what I said).

I want to remove the pump (should be easy) and remove the plumbing capping any holes in the "back of the motor" (seems really difficult), I was hoping not to have to pull the motor out to do this work, the truck sits rather high and I am not sure that I can find a cherry picker with a "tall" enough boom to pull the motor up and out (if you know of one, please tell me).
I am in the middle of a total SMOG removal and rebuild. As I got further and further in I finally decided to just swap the heads and put a nice set of block hugger headers on it. Every bit of the pollution control system is off and I am eliminating the lousy Lean Burn computer. Im learning as I go hear. I started a build thread in the forum. Hit me up if you have questions that I might help with.
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 03:04 PM
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Default Smog Removal

When I purchased my truck some shade tree mechanic had removed all the emission controls.
Unfortunatley I live in a county that requires safety and emission inspections. Since the truck is old enough the emissions are not tested but do have to be hooked up.
The AIR pump belt was missing and the pump locked up. The charcoal canister was gone and the bracket was cut with tin snips.
The EGR valve and Crossover pipe vac lines were also disconnected.
The real kicker was the vacum advance removed and capped.
It sure ran better with that hooked up.
Someone also screwed around with the carb and it was running way to rich.
Took 3 junkyards and about 100 bucks but eventually found everything.
I rebuilt the carb and it starts idles and runs great.
I never thought it would be that difficult to find parts for these trucks but seems like most were sent to the crusher long ago. The ones left are pretty well picked over.
My D150 has parts from Dakotas, Ramchargers and even a dodge diplomat.
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by emnestor
I am in the middle of a total SMOG removal and rebuild. As I got further and further in I finally decided to just swap the heads and put a nice set of block hugger headers on it. Every bit of the pollution control system is off and I am eliminating the lousy Lean Burn computer. Im learning as I go hear. I started a build thread in the forum. Hit me up if you have questions that I might help with.
Would love to read your build thread, did you send a link for it? I will do exactly what you are, I only want to keep a high flow performance catalytic converter, none of the rest of the garbage. I also will want to pull the computer AND ALL COMPUTERS, there simply is no need for them in this vehicle.

Can you send a link to the headers that you are looking at, I may go that way as well.
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cmfriend
When I purchased my truck some shade tree mechanic had removed all the emission controls.
Unfortunatley I live in a county that requires safety and emission inspections. Since the truck is old enough the emissions are not tested but do have to be hooked up.
The AIR pump belt was missing and the pump locked up. The charcoal canister was gone and the bracket was cut with tin snips.
The EGR valve and Crossover pipe vac lines were also disconnected.
The real kicker was the vacum advance removed and capped.
It sure ran better with that hooked up.
Someone also screwed around with the carb and it was running way to rich.
Took 3 junkyards and about 100 bucks but eventually found everything.
I rebuilt the carb and it starts idles and runs great.
I never thought it would be that difficult to find parts for these trucks but seems like most were sent to the crusher long ago. The ones left are pretty well picked over.
My D150 has parts from Dakotas, Ramchargers and even a dodge diplomat.
Feel you pain on the parts issues, I have been buying after market stuff and making it work. If I wanted old rusty parts from a yard, I would just reuse old rusty parts I have, just clean then, prime them, paint them (ex. like my u-bolt plates, no universal plate works because the ear on the stock ones for the front sway bar.
 


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