I looked at the Mr. Gasket site and they say there is a regulator in the pump but "highly recomend" you use a regulator. I still couldn't figure out how to deal with fuel return and the pressure for my vehicle which may not be for this Weber carb conversion kit is 3.5 min 4.5 max and the Mr gasket pump runs at 4-7 psi.I could put the regulator after the pump but how would I handle fuel return? Or would I need to?

That's all above my pay grade and I want this thing running right so I can do some jobs at my house and won;t have to worry if I need to take the Dak tranny apart. My Dak don't run right and it seems to be misadjusted tranny. I already paid twice to get it fixed and well I decided it must be like MC's if you can't work on it yourself you will always be paying someone to fix what the last guy should have. so I have ordered the Airtex OE pump from Autozone for the Ram50. I will update tomorrow afternoon. I should be able to replace all the fuel hose in the engine compartment with this job and there will only be the short pieces at the fuel tank to worry about.

Edit: I just took a drive and it happened again this time on the flats just as I hit 50mph. What happens at 45-50mph that is so different than what goes on below that speed? That just seems so weird to be happening at such a specific speed when it feels normal and strong below that.

 

OK I know I have said this before but I think it is fixed.
The pump came in this afternoon and I installed it. I found two things one is the carb base had loosened and the gasket was soaked in gas and there was a huge puddle in the manifold much larger than I mentioned when I did the kit.
the other thing is the last person to have messed with the pump put the return line on the vent! I don't know if someone was screwing with me or what but I suspect that was the cause of the loping/fuel problem.
I used blue locktite on the carb nuts and will tighten it and the pump again in the morning when it is cold. I'll probably keep an eye on them for a while. I took it for a drive and hit the hill cold and it did great it never hesitated or showed any sign of a problem. Did great on the highway too.
Yea! i hope.

 

I'm gonna have to say it is FIXED!!!!!
I drove it to the top of the Cascades yesterday and hauled a load of dirt this morning with no problems at all.
It even got real good mileage. 166 miles just about a half tank, I'd say About 23mpg's+

 

Bad news anyone following this thread I overheated and it blew a gasket. Oil running down the back side of the motor when it stopped. It turns over fine manually no catches and the water I put in when I got it home went into the oil pan while I tried cranking it over to see if it will start. I drained it put some oil down the plug holes and the rest of the quart down the oil fill tube and manually cranked it over ten times to coat the motor. I haven't dug in further because it is parked in the street at the moment.
I spoke to a shop and they were very discouraging as was a website I consulted. The shop was talking 2K to do a head "if we can find one" I guess they were assuming it was bad and figured $7-800 for a rebuilt one.
I can get one for less than $400 ready to install if it comes to that.
Does anyone have any input? It has 100900 miles on it.

 

dude... I bought a WHOLE FRIGGIN TRUCK for 350, did a motor swap for the price of a few gaskets ( had to switch intake manifolds since mine is carb and donor truck was tbi ), any shop that is quoting you 2000 for a head gasket repair is raping you

 

if you have a way to get to a junkyard, id go there and pull a set of heads and take them to the shop, say here ya go half the works already done!

 

Yea I figured he was full of it. A lot of folks around here have been trying to get me to give this thing up on the cheap for almost as long as I have had it. Lots of folks hate foreign motors. This is the Ram that dodge had mitsubishi build.
Anyway what should a head cost? And what is the machine shop gonna do aside from surfacing and how much should that cost? I should be able to get a head I know of at least two of these things in the picapart around here.

 

well, the junkyard I go to wanted 100 bucks for the SET of heads so idk if that's good or great but that's what I paid...no idea on machine shop prices because that can vary greatly depending on where ya go

 

That's a good idea I can probably do the heater core too.
I am stuck again. This is my first head removal I have the bolts out with the intake still attached per the instructions I found on mightyram50 just in case all is well (that way I only have to replace the gasket and bolts) and it won't lift off. It is catching on something. It feels like something is still connected but I have removed all 10 bolts.
It is at TDC with the cam sprocket tied to the timing belt so that it doesn't have to be redone. It sits on the lip on the bottom half of the timing belt cover designed for this purpose.
Any ideas aside from removing the intake?

 

id probably just remove the intake... its just a few extra bolts and shouldn't be more than 20 bucks in gaskets... plus then you got new ones in there so its not gonna blow those anytime son either...also when you do this don't forget to replace your thermostat and flush the ENTIRE cooling system... only sayin that because it overheated for a reason not just cuz it felt like it