rear drum brakes not working

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Aug 2, 2014 | 11:37 PM
  #1  
I changed shoes, drums, springs and right rear wheel cylinder today.
Tightened the parking brake cable.
Nothing, parking brake nor foot brake.

Anybody have any suggestions or tips? I'm baffled, please help.

Won't be able to get it to pass state inspection without them working.

Thanks!
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Aug 3, 2014 | 02:46 AM
  #2  
Did you bleed them properly?

Did you adjust the shoes until you had a small amount of drag on the drum when turning by hand?
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Aug 3, 2014 | 10:44 AM
  #3  
rear drum brakes
I bled the brakes, brake pedal feels good, but will rebleed them again. This should not affect the parking brake, right? Parking brake is mechanical, not hydraulic, so the bleeding is not going to change the effectiveness of it. I guess I need to take both brake drums off and operate the parking brake and see what's going on.
Thanks
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Aug 3, 2014 | 10:46 AM
  #4  
Oh, and yes, both sides had about the same amount of drag agree adjusting the auto tightener.
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Aug 3, 2014 | 11:19 AM
  #5  
No, air in the lines wouldn't affect the e-brake.

I was just talking you through the steps. If your certain you have the air out of the system, you then need to adjust the brakes (with the "star wheel" adjuster by hand) until you have a slight drag on the drum. Then adjust your e-brake.
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Aug 6, 2014 | 01:48 PM
  #6  
Quote: I changed shoes, drums, springs and right rear wheel cylinder today.
Tightened the parking brake cable.
Nothing, parking brake nor foot brake.

Anybody have any suggestions or tips? I'm baffled, please help.

Won't be able to get it to pass state inspection without them working.

Thanks!
So it drive and stops fine you just need to know how to adjust the parking brakes?

Dave
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Aug 7, 2014 | 07:53 AM
  #7  
Quote: So it drive and stops fine you just need to know how to adjust the parking brakes?

Dave
Well, neither the parking brake nor the normal brake are working, I adjusted the parking brake so tight that the foot pedal for it was pulled all the way up. I had to let off of it to bring it down some so I could operate it.
I haven't had a chance to take the drums back of to visually check to see what's going on when I apply either brake system. Probably will do that Saturday.
And thank you for your service, xjarhead.
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Aug 9, 2014 | 01:19 PM
  #8  
Ok so we will assume that with wheels jacked up and someone pushing on brake peddle that wheels still turn.
So either the adjuster needs adjusting or your not getting fluid to wheel cylinders.
so try sdjusting first.
If you still can't get brakes pressing on the peddle then you have brake line plugged.

Dave
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Aug 9, 2014 | 09:53 PM
  #9  
there is a block on the side of the frame, that has a rubber cover on one end, and inside that is a pin, thats suppose to stop fluid loss if a rear line was to blow. tap it gently with a hammer to see if it goes in. it wouldn't effect the e-brake, but it will keep your rear brakes from working. you can stand on the brake peddle with both feet and they will not work if that pin is not pushed in. just a thought!! you said you changed a wheel cylinder, so it could be the cause.
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Aug 10, 2014 | 08:51 AM
  #10  
Quote: there is a block on the side of the frame, that has a rubber cover on one end, and inside that is a pin, thats suppose to stop fluid loss if a rear line was to blow. tap it gently with a hammer to see if it goes in. it wouldn't effect the e-brake, but it will keep your rear brakes from working. you can stand on the brake peddle with both feet and they will not work if that pin is not pushed in. just a thought!! you said you changed a wheel cylinder, so it could be the cause.
Thanks man, I haven't been able to get back to it, but as soon as I can, I will check it. I seen the box on the frame, but figured it had something to do with the RWAL. Did you find the info in yer new factory service manual? I'm ordering me 1 next pay check.
Thanks for taking the time to send me this info!
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