Hey guys and gals. I’m about at the end of the rope on this thing. I’ve got a 93’ W150 and thank F it’s a second vehicle as well as a project but holy mother of horny toads this thing is driving me nuts! I recently parked this beast in the grass off the side of my driveway. And by recent, I mean near two months of symmetrical grass killing, oil dripping excitement hat has my wife tickled between the skins about. I have wiring diagrams, I’ve cut a hole in my floor tunnel, dropped the tranny like it was hitting on me in the men’s room, cut my EGR tube like a child molesting inmate gets treated and all this just to access a cheap hooker crankshaft position sensor. And before you say anything, it was all completely necessary...(even if it wasn’t) to me. I’ve got the Haynes manual on testing the ignition. I’ve got two wiring diagrams from two different sources including Haynes. I’ve run test after test on wires. I must have a fukin two headed unicorn of a truck because there are small differences in everything. I have what must be the only version of Multiport fuel injection ever produced or something. During tests, I’m “supposed” to see a 5v reference at the sensor power. Well, there’s two voltage references on this abomination I guess. According to my wiring diagram, there’s a white and violet wire from the pcm that gives 5+v and an orange one that gives 8 or 9v... the print is really small, and my ***** is huge so there’s that. The violet/white wire with the correct voltage reference only goes to the throttle pos and map sensor. The orange goes to the cps and multiple others. I have ground. I’ve checked the ignition coil and it gets 12v on key turn just for a second but no spark past it. Relays have been tested and passed and replaced just because I wanted to hope I’d just missed something small. Injectors have proper voltage. Fuel pump works and has pressure at the rail. I’ve tested the crank sensor by manually rotating the crank pulley and get no signal when it passes. It literally stays at 6.4v solid signal (for some friggin reason). Cam sensor passes with 5v reference when it’s supposed to. The old crank sensor looked exactly like one I saw on napa’s Site for a manual transmission one. It had a thick plastic mount with sleeved holes for the bolts. But now my replacement is metal and I can’t even get the black plastic one. But I also tested it with a wrench activating the magnetic portion and had no drop voltage. So I got another sensor thinking the first was a bad egg. Well, no friggin difference there. Same ****. But no where can I find any exact reference to my issues. Even the one page I found for diagnosing crank sensors mentioned the violet/white wire being a 5v reference but that was for 1994 to whatever. Mine must have been made in between a space time continuum fold of epic proportions because this bitch is about to roll off an imaginary cliff. Oh, I also took the pcm to the dealership and they looked at me like I had a dick poking its way out of my skull. I mean, this chic looked at me like I owed her child support when I held up my “can you test this” pcm. So before I go spending money on another pcm, or go carbureted (I already have a brand new 600 carb btw. It’s not even out of the plastic wrap yet), can anyone possibly shed some light on my oh so minor dilemma? Pleeeez haha

Oh and go (put your favorite football team name here)!!

My apologies for trying to add a bit too much abstract humor here. So a bit more detailed follows.
Anyways, it started off with the truck not starting a couple times then after being parked for about 2+ weeks, crank/no start. I immediately thought crank sensor when I checked for and found no spark but went through as detailed as possible a check from the plug wires through to the ignition coil. Checking voltage and continuity. Plugs and wires are new and fine. Distributor pickup reads 5v reference when in the right position. Ignition coil shows power to it but only for a second when ignition turned to the on position then cuts out. Same goes when cranking. 12v at first then .1-.3v during crank. Map and tb sensors show correct. My main confusion is how everything I read says there should be 5v to the crank sensor but it is on an 8v wire and according to the wiring diagram, the orange wire is 8v. Now when ground is checked, before turning the key to the in position, the crank sensor shows 12v but then turned on, it shows the 5v reference that I’m seeing it’s supposed to. So there’s still no spark

Yeah, I’ve checked the coil and even replaced it just because I figured it wouldn’t hurt. I’ve checked the power to and from it and it passes the tests I e gone through described by Haynes. One thing though confuses me. I’ve purchased 3 different crank sensors because according to Haynes, home between two of the sensor pin terminals is supposed to be infinite resistance and if there’s low resistance, I’m to replace it. Well all three have about the same resistance between those two pins and it’s like 11.xx ohms on the 2k setting. I figured I had a chance of getting a bad one but all three? I don’t know exactly what it’s supposed to be