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Ignition switch, fusible links

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  #11  
Old 06-23-2019, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by crazzywolfie
the blower motor circuits on trucks with a/c are known week spots. i have seen melted fuses in the fuse panel and melted control panels. i haven't seen a melted ignition switch but it would not surprise me if it failed because of the load. i would even consider putting the blower motor on a relay if you use it enough.
Yeah, I was looking at that. They have allot of heavy wire running along ways. Longer the wire the higher the resistance. I think a relay will be the way to go just less draw on the system. I'll only be using it in the winter mostly to clear the windshield, A/C is no longer an option in this rig. I got three other vehicles that have it, if I want it lol. I was surprised I didn't see anything abnormal in the bulk head connector with all the hot spots I've found digging around the harnesses, but I did eleaveate allot of current draw, and fixed allot of questionable splices so the system should be like it was new. It starts faster, charges better. I haven't popped any fuses yet in my new fuse block under the hood, but I have spares if it should happen. Still using 10 and 15 amp fuses.
 
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Old 06-23-2019, 01:46 PM
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you may want to solid state relay if you want to keep the wiring simpler. if you use regular relays you got to do some fancy wiring to make it work. also if you wanted you could always drill a hole in the firewall above the blower motor and just run the wire straight from the switch to the motor instead of the 10' or so of wire between the 2. might be able to cut it down to 4ft or less. as far as the bulkhead connector goes dodge learned from their mistakes with the 70's trucks and made the 80's/90's ones better.
 
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Old 06-23-2019, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by crazzywolfie
you may want to solid state relay if you want to keep the wiring simpler. if you use regular relays you got to do some fancy wiring to make it work. also if you wanted you could always drill a hole in the firewall above the blower motor and just run the wire straight from the switch to the motor instead of the 10' or so of wire between the 2. might be able to cut it down to 4ft or less. as far as the bulkhead connector goes dodge learned from their mistakes with the 70's trucks and made the 80's/90's ones better.

I could go that route, I did eliminate the abs module and wiring behind the glove box so it's pretty empty in there now. Glad they learned from their mistakes, that's good news lol.
 



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