OBD1 Tuning
i have a 1992 dodge w150 with the magnum 5.2 and auto transmission in it. I am currently running a mopar performance computer and have decided to do a cam swap.
The cam specs are Duration @.050-215.6/ 222.8 Lobe lift- .319/ .318 Valve lift- .510/ .508 Lobe seperation- 109.7
I have all of the supporting parts mechanically. My question really is how will the pcm run with that cam? if not well what options there are for me tuning/ standalone wise. id really like to have the motor running as well as possible.
Thanks in advance!
The cam specs are Duration @.050-215.6/ 222.8 Lobe lift- .319/ .318 Valve lift- .510/ .508 Lobe seperation- 109.7
I have all of the supporting parts mechanically. My question really is how will the pcm run with that cam? if not well what options there are for me tuning/ standalone wise. id really like to have the motor running as well as possible.
Thanks in advance!
What would my best bet be for standalone then? I really don't want to spend 1000 dollars on that, since i have an auto tranny what would have to be changed with that if i went to obd2? I'm new to all of the tuning side of builds like this.
there is no cheap way to do what you want. you should see what the computer specs are as far as cam. some might allow for some cam but not likely. closest option to a cam that will likely keep the computer happy is i think 1.7 roller rockers. should allow the engine to breath better like a cam but not upset the computer.
I am looking to go standalone, in the Microsquirt variety. I am planning to run my ignition from the standalone. How should I go about that? should i wire the standalone into the factory coil/ ignition setup. or should i go with a wasted spark or coil pack type setup? if i was to run off of the stock ignition system would i be able to control timing or is that all locked because of the distributor set up?
How do you know the PCM will not work with that cam? It seems like the first problem would be airflow or air mass parameter (engine vacuum) would be outside of the range the computer would understand and besides that, spark advance might not be optimal. If it flat refuses to run, that is one thing. But the most likely problem is an incorrect air/fuel mix. Think about it, the temp, throttle position, air temp, vehicle speed sensor, fuel pressure and therefore potential fuel volume, all the same. MAP input, cam events, different. If I was unsure then I would hook up a O2 sensor program with data output and just see what happens, before I spent a huge amount of money on a complete standalone, which sounds like something you'd like to avoid. FWIW I have a V10 with cam specs slightly more docile than yours, your lobe center is more optimal, and I have an upgraded Mopar Performance PCM. It seems to run pretty well, but my vacuum is low and I have not gotten far enough along with it to decide if I am getting everything I can get, or close to it, but that is what I have done, set up basic monitoring.
Instead of tying yourself into a problem by picking a cam, specially with no other upgrades, (you did not say what else if anything you have done to your truck) why not call somebody like HughesEngines for their (informed) opinion about what cam might work for you and especially, why they recommend it, would or would not recommend what you have in mind.
Instead of tying yourself into a problem by picking a cam, specially with no other upgrades, (you did not say what else if anything you have done to your truck) why not call somebody like HughesEngines for their (informed) opinion about what cam might work for you and especially, why they recommend it, would or would not recommend what you have in mind.











