So bit of an update, I ordered new injectors from RA (STANDARD TJ22 ) and installed them.
The pattern seems to be exactly them same as it was before. Could it be that I have the wrong injectors or that I'm installing them incorrectly?

The injectors came with three o-rings where two were already fitted on the injector and one (with a large diameter) just included in the "package" (you can see pictures on the RA listing). I couldn't get the injectors to seat properly with the larger o-gasket fitted. The injectors that were installed didn't have this o-ring, so I just installed them without it.

While I was at it, I replaced the spark plugs as well. The old ones had a bit of carbon which means that it has been slightly rich (right?).

 

How is your fuel pressure??

 

It seems good: . It's sitting stable around 15 PSI even when I give it throttle and it starts to bog.

Do you think it's worth checking again now that I've replaced the injectors?

 

i would check the timing. even if you just mark where the distributor currently is and try turning it till it runs better or worse. i know you say you had someone else set the time but if they didn't know what they were doing it likely didn't get set right. you need to unplug the coolant temp sensor to set the base timing but you could just try adjusting the distributor with the truck running and see if you are able to get rid of the bog. if you at least mark were you started worst case scenario you can just turn it back to where it was.

 

Gotcha, makes sense, I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thanks!

 

In post #19 you have a video of the injectors, When you gave it throttle it didn't seem to bog. What does the pattern/flow look like when it bogs?

 

I checked the timing and it looked to me like it was about ~5-10° off (retarded, for a lack of a better word). I set it to about 10° BTDC and everything seemed much better. I was able to give it full throttle and it wouldn't bog down which I have never been able to do, hot or cold. So It seemed like a win.

However, when I fired it up this morning and drove off, the issue was still there. I want to say that it was slightly better than it was before, but I'm not sure.

I'm going to order a tachometer and check the RPM at idle and then i'll try and adjust the timing a bit better to see if that fully fixes it.

 

Good point, I'm going to see if I can a video of that once I get off work.

 

So bit of an update: I was able to fix the check engine light, the connectors had a bit of corrosion which I brushed off.

The diagnostic codes I got are:

• 12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
• 23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
  • This seems a bit strange to me. I'm pretty sure there is no intake air sensor. Is this referring to the throttle body sensor?
• 33 A/C clutch relay circuit
  • There's no A/C in the car, so I guess i'm stuck with this one (this is not the original ECM as I previously mentioned)
• 24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
  • I've replaced the TPS already, but now i'm thinking could I have flipped it 180 degrees, would that have any impact?
• 32 EGR system failure
  • The EGR system isn't connected. I have a spare EGR valve, would replacing it make any difference since it's not connected?
  • Could it be stuck open or closed and would that have any impact?
• 36 (3.9/5.2 RWD) solenoid coil circuit (air switching)
  • I assume these are the solenoids for the EGR system. None of them have vacuum lines connected, but they are plugged in.
• 22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
  • It has a new coolant temp sensor installed. I already have a spare, so I might try swapping it out anyway.
• 55 End of error messages

I still haven't gotten a video of the injectors when it bogs down, i'll try to get to that soon.

 

The TPS is correctly oriented (according to the picture in the service manual). However, I checked the voltage across the wires on the TPS and it seems that it's not getting the full 5 volts of power.
I need to recheck all of this since I did it in a bit of a hurry, but it also seemed that the signal wire is not able to give the out the full 4.7-5v at WOT (which obviously makes sense since the power feed seems bad.)

I also noticed that the connector plastic had melted at some point, so it seems that something is at fault with the wiring.