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Hello everyone. Like many before me, I would like to lift my 83 W150 about 4-5". Aside from the kit itself, what else needs to be addressed or replaced? Driveshafts? Linkages? brake lines? etc. Also, is steering stabilization needed at these heights?
I'm looking at a BDS 5" lift or the Rough Country 4" lift.
The stock front driveshaft will bind. You can clearance it significantly on the next ujoint re&re to angulate as good as the Spicer ones. Length will have to be assessed after. Do not shim the pinion up if the kit includes them - thats a sure way to lose your caster angle and thus your on-road handling.
Steering will need help. A dropped pitman and adjustable draglink are probably the easiest. A raised knuckle arm is probably stronger, but harder to install. Crossover is likely the best, but that will cost you. If this is a shortbox, the frame is especially thin, and the higher steering forces could push it to failure.
I lifted my 93 diesel 3" using 2" leafs and a 1" spacer. I can just get by with stock steering. I run a basic, single stabilizer with 35's.
The stock front driveshaft will bind. You can clearance it significantly on the next ujoint re&re to angulate as good as the Spicer ones. Length will have to be assessed after. Do not shim the pinion up if the kit includes them - thats a sure way to lose your caster angle and thus your on-road handling.
Steering will need help. A dropped pitman and adjustable draglink are probably the easiest. A raised knuckle arm is probably stronger, but harder to install. Crossover is likely the best, but that will cost you. If this is a shortbox, the frame is especially thin, and the higher steering forces could push it to failure.
I lifted my 93 diesel 3" using 2" leafs and a 1" spacer. I can just get by with stock steering. I run a basic, single stabilizer with 35's.
I just checked out the Skyjacker kit and may go with them, simply because they address all the things you mentioned. Yes, it costs more but they give you new brake hoses, Drag link, pitman arm (not a spacer), and swaybar drop brackets. They seem to be the only ones who've thought it out fully. If you add that to the cost of the "cheaper" kits your at the same price.
I've heard NOT to do the shims because, as you mentioned, it with mess up the caster.
My truck is a shortbox.
Can you please explain more about the driveshafts? I understand that the u-joints will bind? But I'm not sure where you were going with the Spicer joints. Sorry, my brain seems to only fire on all eight every so often.
A native spicer 1330 CV can do around 30° angle. (Ford, 94+ dodge). The saginaw (chevy, 93-older dodge) we have doesn't do more than 10-15° without clearancing.
Original saginaw in background, clearanced saginaw in foreground.
Edit: the front pinion yoke may bind too. The little 7260 stuff isnt very forgiving.
Brake hoses are kind of academic. The single one in the front can be moved a little, same with the rear. A rear can also be used up front (longer).
A native spicer 1330 CV can do around 30° angle. (Ford, 94+ dodge). The saginaw (chevy, 93-older dodge) we have doesn't do more than 10-15° without clearancing.
Original saginaw in background, clearanced saginaw in foreground.
Okay
I understand now. I need the newer Spicer joint as a replacement instead fo the older CV joint. Gotcha.
The slip yoke is kinda wore out on mine anyway so it may just be a good idea to replace the whole thing....new shaft, right length and Spicer joint.