Replace Alternator with built-in regulator
Greetings!
I have a '91 D250 with a 360ci v8. The voltage regulator on this truck is built into the computer module. When the VR failed, I thought I would work around by attaching a standalone regulator to the firewall and using it instead of the computer. This seemed to work well for a while, but I have had three regulator failures over the past couple of years. SO, I want to replace the alternator with a compatible alternator that has a built-in regulator. I'm not sure where to start, but I'm sure other people have run into this problem before.
Thanks in advance for any help or ideas.
I have a '91 D250 with a 360ci v8. The voltage regulator on this truck is built into the computer module. When the VR failed, I thought I would work around by attaching a standalone regulator to the firewall and using it instead of the computer. This seemed to work well for a while, but I have had three regulator failures over the past couple of years. SO, I want to replace the alternator with a compatible alternator that has a built-in regulator. I'm not sure where to start, but I'm sure other people have run into this problem before.
Thanks in advance for any help or ideas.
I have had three regulator failures over the past couple of years.
Thanks for your reply.
That is exactly the setup I used. I unhooked the field return from the computer but kept the ign supply. I ran both field wires to the regulator and made sure the regulator was well grounded to the chassis. The regulator was a generic for similar Dodge trucks.
I was hoping to replace the alternator* entirely so that the regulator would be specifically designed for that alternator, and so that they were both electrically one unit in one location.
*Ideally, if the existing alternator was also produced as a regulated model, I could just install the appropriate regulator on my existing alternator.
P.S.- This time the failure blew a fusible link and the engine went dead. I was able to unhook alternator and regulator, bridge the fusible link, and drive 8 miles home on the battery.
That is exactly the setup I used. I unhooked the field return from the computer but kept the ign supply. I ran both field wires to the regulator and made sure the regulator was well grounded to the chassis. The regulator was a generic for similar Dodge trucks.
I was hoping to replace the alternator* entirely so that the regulator would be specifically designed for that alternator, and so that they were both electrically one unit in one location.
*Ideally, if the existing alternator was also produced as a regulated model, I could just install the appropriate regulator on my existing alternator.
P.S.- This time the failure blew a fusible link and the engine went dead. I was able to unhook alternator and regulator, bridge the fusible link, and drive 8 miles home on the battery.
I never had any issues with any of the regulators on any of my cars. But the way aftermarket parts are today who knows. Did the regulators have any kind of warranty? Did the store honer it? GM is the only manufacture that i know used internal regulators but there are aftermarket ones you can get. I would put one of my oe spares i have laying around and see if that works. It's your call to replace the alternator or get a regulator that keeps working. I wonder if one of the diodes in the alternator are bad causing it? Usually if they go bad output voltage will drop. What was to output when it is working?
You also have to make sure the fat alternator wire is free of corrosion in the two inline bullet connectors. That was the case for me... Drove the charge voltage way up. All good after cleaning.









