diesel in first gen
I was wondering how difficult it would be to jrop a diesel in them, I know this gen has them but mine does not and wondering if anyone has done a swap with maybe a 5.9l cummins (12 valve) asumming I can get ahold of a a decent one
Best bet is to find one that has been rolled but the drivetrain is intact. You'll need the entire fuel system, engine, bellhousing/tranny, iirc the front springs are beefier as is the axle (no?), since the engine alone weighs almost 3x as much as a smallblock. You'll also need to either rig or swap the wiring harness (engine stuff). That's why I say it's best to get a donor. And if you're putting it into a 1/2 ton you may want the driveshaft and rear axle too, along with the bigger brakes and brake booster. Last but not least you may need a different engine crossmember and motor mounts.
you would be much better off finding one with the diesel already in it. good luck though, they are hard to come by and those that have one arent too apt to sell it.
it can be done though. Ive seen a brand new 05 reg cab SB that had a built 12 valve under the hood. . .that bad boy could smoke some tires. but you do have to watch out for weight. the Cummins tips the scale close to 1000 pounds.
it can be done though. Ive seen a brand new 05 reg cab SB that had a built 12 valve under the hood. . .that bad boy could smoke some tires. but you do have to watch out for weight. the Cummins tips the scale close to 1000 pounds.
Are you planning on swapping it into a 1/2 ton or 3/4-1ton. If it's a 1/2 ton, just forget about it
As Drew pointed out, they tip the scales at close to 1000lbs. You'd have to swap out the whole suspension for the truck to handle the weight.
I agree with horatio as well...you'd definitely want to find a complete truck as you'll need quite a list of parts....
Motor
Transmision
Transfer case (if 4wd)
Suspension
Front axle (if 4wd)
Rear axle (if you have less than a 3/4 ton)
Driveshafts
Wiring
Motor mounts
Radiator
Brakes (if you have less than a 3/4 ton)
It can also get pricey. Before I bought my V10 I was looking at a '92 CTD, but it was a manual. I can't drive manual, so I looked into converting it. The final total cost to convert it was somewhere around $5,000!!!...doing the work myself [>:] I decided to just find a truck that had an auto in already. Best choice for you might be to find one with a CTD in already
Good luck!
As Drew pointed out, they tip the scales at close to 1000lbs. You'd have to swap out the whole suspension for the truck to handle the weight. I agree with horatio as well...you'd definitely want to find a complete truck as you'll need quite a list of parts....
Motor
Transmision
Transfer case (if 4wd)
Suspension
Front axle (if 4wd)
Rear axle (if you have less than a 3/4 ton)
Driveshafts
Wiring
Motor mounts
Radiator
Brakes (if you have less than a 3/4 ton)
It can also get pricey. Before I bought my V10 I was looking at a '92 CTD, but it was a manual. I can't drive manual, so I looked into converting it. The final total cost to convert it was somewhere around $5,000!!!...doing the work myself [>:] I decided to just find a truck that had an auto in already. Best choice for you might be to find one with a CTD in already
Good luck!
Okay thanks for the info. I had an idea of what had to be done I figure you guys on here where alot more exsperienced than me. Cost I can worry about later, I plan to do the swap at a tech school I'm attending, and thought it was a good project and no one on the road would exspect it, plus as a project using the school and other guys help will help cut cost. I had one other question, I've done some reading and hear about how good they are, the 12 valve cummins, but still have yet know why. I know you can get tons of power but I was wondering what made them more desirable over say the new gen cummins?
The new ones are great motors too, it's just the old ones have a lot less electronics and whatnot to fail.
That's my take on it anyway.
I think all of them are seriously overbuilt for stock output levels.
I also wonder about the strength of the 24valve heads when cranking boost pressures way up. There are a lot more holes in those heads, a lot more moving parts to break, etc.
That's my take on it anyway.
I think all of them are seriously overbuilt for stock output levels.
I also wonder about the strength of the 24valve heads when cranking boost pressures way up. There are a lot more holes in those heads, a lot more moving parts to break, etc.
okay that makes sense, it's just like most new engines with all the electronics. Thanks for all the info.
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the newer engines are comeing of age, and good power is being made from then with all the electronics. but there is a limitation as to how much power these blocks can handle. yes, the cummins block is more stout then the chevy Isuzu, or the Ford International which have iron blocks, but aluminum heads. power on the older 12 valve P7100 pumps was there. these engines were VERY detuned, but there was still a limit as to how far one could go before o-ringing and fire ringing the head and block was necessary to go farther. But it all lies in the pump as to how much power can be made. the P7100 can dump some fuel, the newer CP3 pump is capable of doing the same, but the electronics limit the fueling in alot of situations. the P7100 pump can be turned up to give an extra 75-150 HP for under $200. the same levels on the new 24 valve's takes over 500 to do cause of the electronics.



