The 727 is probably just in 4x4 models. But if you search google, you could find out pretty quick what you are suppose to have in your rig, if its not swapped out already. Take a peek and see. Get the tag #'s off it and search google. If you want more power, the rear-end will definately need to be upgraded to a 9.25 rear end. I bet all 360 dodges have the 9.25, I know mine does and its a 4x4 model.

I don't understand your reasoning here. You want a street truck, for normal usage, no drag, no racing. Then why go to more power? The 318 is plenty good for what you want to do, unless I am not understanding you correctly. From what I gather, your engine sux, and transmission sux. My guess would be due to age, so just rebuild it. Why make things more complicated then they are. Just rebuild the engine, putting in quality parts, this will improve performance. You say you are in Iraq, heck man that makes things even more difficult. They like their imports over there. If I were you I would rebuild the 318 the way you want it, or go stroker. Transmission is a breeze, Id go 518 with adapter plate if I had the 727. But I doubt yours will have a 727, i could be wrong.

 

727, 904, 518

What year, model is your rig?

 

u may want to look for donor motors from earlier model dodges mines had a 727 in it its a 74 with a 318 orginally on it mines is now running a 360 with a 727 but perhaps u should just rebuild and see where ur at dont got to throw alot of money at it just clean it up with a performance street cam carb and intake u will probably get some good gains if properly balanced also some headers i could see that motor breaking 250hp with minimal mods if tuned properly just rebuild and bore it out

 

1st I don't live in the stupid country of IRAQ. I live in Texas. I'm in the Army so I have to be here right now. My truck is a 1991. I'll try to get call home and get some number off the transmission.

 

My 90 pickup was a 318 4 speed truck . I bought a 380 horse 360 from local dealership for 3400.00 and it has been the best running truck I have had in a long time. You can get a stock truck pan and pickup tube from just about anyone. I used an MSD 6AL so I could bypass the factory computer. Good luck with your choice, but I think you would be happy with a crate motor.

 

First, on tranny id, check the id tag under the hood. It should tell you tranny model and rear axle size and ratio, among other things (that is if it's still legible). Four auto trans. models were available for your truck - the A727/A999 (3-speeds) and the A500/A518 (four speeds). Basically, the A727 and A518 were heavy duty models that were used with the 5.2/5.9L engines. The A999/A500's were used on the 3.9/5.2L engines. If you have overdrive, you have either the A500/518. For performance, I would go with an A727/A518.

I have a '91 D150 with the 318/A500 combo and like you, I'm considering a rebuild/swap of some sort. What I can tell you is if your goal is 300+ hp, I would think the stock TBI will be your biggest limitation. I would guess the limit is somewhere near 275hp, but haven't been able to find any real data to confirm/deny this assumption. However, there could actually be more or less there. Short of some tricks/mods to boost the stock TBI's capability such as increasing fuel pressure or adding bigger injectors (if there is such a thing), you'll need to consider going either MPI or carbureted. Personally, I'm leaning more toward carbureted for cost and simplicity.

As a couple of people mentioned, the 318 to 390 stroker route would be great because you'll get great power & torque, plus you keep all your accessories and bracketry stock. But as mentioned, the stroker kits can bepretty expensive.

If you're not stuck on keeping the 318, the 360 would seem to be a great alternative. First, they were an option on these trucks, so necessary mods would be minimal. Also, you'd have the option of getting the pre-magnum engine for a carbureted fuel system or the magnum engine for MPI. For the MPI setup, you could probably find the heads, intake, fuel system, wiring harness and ECU from a local pick 'n pull. Mancini Racing sells the MPP shortblocks for ~$1,300.00 I think. Add heads, intake and fuel system and you're ready to go. You'll get good power and torque with a relatively lighweight engine.

The 440 option would seem like the most fun, but probably the most work too. You certainly have the room for it under the hood, but you'd have to change motor mounts, tranny, and accesssory brackets, among other things. Definitely do-able, but you'd have to do your research.

Either way, good luck with it and let us know how things progress. And thanks for your service to our country! Kick*ss over there and come back safe.

 

i say you get a nice crate 360 you wont have to do alot of modificantion becuase you muct remember a 360 is a 318 with a taller bore. see if your trans is able to handle it and either rebuild it or get one just like it.. even tho i dont beleive in lowered trucks i love these 1st gens there the best.. i have a 91 but its 4x4(wouldnt have it any other way) and club cab i dont know how to get my dam pics on here it wouldnt let me last time. but anyway let me know what you plan on and ofcourse thanks for serveing our country soldier

 

The 360 is a dog? Somebody's smoking something illegal.

The 318 and 360 are different castings, similar blocks but not identical.

A 390 stroker would give a bunch of power, but so would a 408 or 426 stroker. 440s can make a huge amount of power too, but I'd stick with the small block for simplicity.

Oh, and the 360 always had more hp than the 318. It wasn't a lot, but the magnums it was 230 vs 245-250.

The late 70s through the end of the LA motors suffered from a lot of things - poor head design, extremely low compression, wet intake manifolds, poor emission control designs, etc.

You can make a bunch of power with the 318 without stroking it. It's hard to compete with the mopar crate motors though, dollar for dollar.

I'd recommend going high compression on your rebuild, convert to HD magnum heads, 4-bbl intake, 600cfm carb, keep your current exhaust setup, and get a decent cam and a 14x4 open element filter

 

I find a Master Rebuild Kit for the 318. Right now it's Fuel Inj. and I want to switch to cab. How do I about doing that. I was looking in to the RT Heads, they are about $800. Just thinking about keeping the 318 in there, but I would like to add so good horse to it.

 

I'd go to a junk yard and find a recent dakota/durango/ram with a magnum 360 and rebuild that. My buddy's got about as much out of a relatively stock 318 that you can get without power adders or high compression rebuild, and he's making about 180hp/250lb-ft at the tires. My dakota put down 311 lb-ft today (hp unavailable due to pinging)

forget the R/T heads, there are better ones available for less.