I will warn everyone now, that after much searching for a reasonable guide online, I was sad to find none with pictures, just people guiding others to use dental floss, and pull on the letters a little. Being a novice with cars, and only now starting to get into the concept of their mechanics and care - this guide is my first attempt at any form of modification. The results speak for themselves - but I cannot guarantee that I just got lucky - and my method will destroy your car in a fiery ball of agony. I have applied vehicle graphics in the past, so I do know some minor information about what to use when working on a painted finish. However my knowledge is far from the best! I should point out - remove your jewlery and watch! You will damage your car if you slip and hit it with your rings.

Step 1: Take a before picture. Nothing beats comparing your work with a before picture and an after picture. (Most people hide their plate in photos... I am proud of mine! THEG33K!) *grin*

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Step 2: Warm up the letters with a blow drier. Heat guns are a no no! Dangerous to you and your paint. You want things warm not hot! Once the letters are warm, slip some Dental Floss behind them, so you can start removing the adhesive from the back of the letter. I used a waxed dental floss to avoid damage to my car.

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Step 3: While you are removing the adhesive - try and remove the adhesive from the letter, not the car. This makes things easier later on.

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Step 4: By now you may have done one letter, broken a lot of dental floss, and cursed the world for the frayed pieces of dental floss the wind is blowing all over your driveway. To ensure you do destroy your patience, make sure you warm the letters after each "deapplication". The following picture shows how much play a warmed up letter has. I did this mod in 14°C heat. Thats below room temperature, so it was very important for me to keep reheating things.

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Step 5: I wanted to be done, and go out for a drive, but rushing is the first way to make a mistake. Take your time - spend an hour, or more if you have to. Depends on how warm the weather is, and how patient you really are.

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Step 6: Most cars have various model naming conventions, mine was R/T. Make sure you follow the same steps on all badges. Be patient and they will come off.

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Step 7: Warm the goo! Remember how I said try and leave the adhesive pad on the car, and just take off the letter. Here is why!

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Step 8: Lift the goo with your finger - watch your nail on the finish!

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Step 9: Peel away... Much easier this way isnt it?

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Step 10: If you do it right and you are patient, you will just have minor residue to remove.

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Step 11: Smaller letters will tend to leave a little more residue that is harder to just "Peel Away."

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Step 12: I picked up a cheap pack of microfiber rags, so I could remove the adhesive and throw them away when I was done. I used 3. One for the initial goo, one for the small residue left behind, and one for the final wax buffing job.

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Step 13: Bug and Tar Remover! People have recomended harsh cleaners for this. Dear god! Keep them away from your car! May as well use a fine grit sandpaper, and work a nice haze into your clearcoat now! I just used an off the shelf Turtle Wax brand bug and tar remover. Cost me 10 bucks.

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Step 14: Follow the directions on the bottle of remover you end up using, and while working - make sure you wipe up overspray. You dont want to miss some and leave it on your car. Prolonged periods of sitting on your clearcoat may damage it.

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Step 15: Let it soak. Be patient, wait a few minutes.

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Step 16: Wipe it away with a cloth, and enjoy the results of chemical engineers and their wonderful bug and tar remover!

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Step 17: Not all of it comes off the first time, Be patient and work at it.

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Step 18: Using one of the clothes you have, attack that softened adhesive goo! This gets gunked up. Expect to throw away the cloth when done. Work your finger into the adhesive - be gentle, and rotate the material away from the car frequently. You dont want to be pressing adhesive all over the back of your car!

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Step 19: Once it is all clean, apply a little wax to the areas you worked on. Use your favorite wax. This was my first time doing it to a car, so I recomend you find someone elses directions - none the less here is the haze I had before buffing.

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Step 20: Sit Back - Admire! What a job! Enjoy your sleeper. Within 2 hours of debadging, I had a guy in a charger pull up behind me, and question what kind of vehicle this was. (His lips said it all through my rear view... "What the hell is that?")

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Here is what I removed, I wanted to save it - as a reminder of what was on the car at one time!
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Total Cost of Mod:
Bug and Tar Remover: $10.00
Wax of Choice: $10.00
Dental Floss: $3.00
Pack of Microfiber Towels: $10.00

Total: $33.00 and you have wax and cleaner for another time! Isnt life grand?!

 

This is great. I plan on taking off my badges. I want to get a blacked out dodge symbol for the front since I'm going for the all black look. I was thinking about taking the dodge emblem off the back. Any reason why you left it on? I want the super clean look. I'll post pictures once I have it done. I hope to get the windows tinted Saturday morning then pull the badges off in the afternoon.

 

I believe it may be held in by pins, and I did not want to risk damage/need to fill holes.

 

That makes sense. Im taking mine off tomorrow or as soon as I can dig out my heat gun.

 

Do not use a heat gun unless you keep it very far away! Your paint is a fragile thing - and you can blister and damage the finish.

The goal is to warm things up to the temperature of a very hot summer day. A heat gun can blister things very fast!

Use a blow dryer if you have one.

The heat makes things much easier - but it is not required. You will just use a lot more bug and tar remover.

TAKE PHOTOS!

 

You can remove the center badge if you like.. I just checked it out and there are no pins, Just double sided tape like the rest.

You can put a small flashlight in one of the small trunk holes then look through one of the larger holes in the trunk to see for yourself. but I just looked in there and there were no pins behind the badge.

 

Good to know. I do like the dodge emblem there as it is, the only way I will take off the center emblem is if I can get a replacement front grill with no badge.

If I remove one dodge emblem, I want them all gone

 

Im going for the blacked out look so unless I can get a black emblem its coming off the back. I'm trying to figure out a solution for the front. I'm thinking about sanding and painting the emblem. A quick search didn't come up with any replacment emblems in black. If anyone has a suggestion let me know. I've been super busy so I hope to pull the emblems one night this week. I'll def take pictures. I have a bottle of goo off. Do you suggest bug and tar over goo off?

 

Definately get some bug and tar remover. Goo-off, while great and works well - is hard on your paints finish. The goal is to get the adhesive off, not any layers of protective coating that currently exist on the car. Bug and tar remover is also designed to get "crud off the car." So use what was designed for your car's finish.

Many people have success with goo-off, but to avoid damage - play it safe. I am sure your car wasnt cheap

 

nice guide. does it work the same for debadging thin stickers like what are on a lot of late 90's-early 00's dodges, like my r/t?
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