Would you be able to provide the make and model of the Amp? Even though its a mono amp it may not be able to go down to 2 ohms stable.

You are correct in your wiring and resistance calculations but if the amp is not 2 ohm stable you should have purchased either a single 4 ohm subwoofer, a single dual voice coil 8 ohmsubwoofer wired in Parallel,Two 8 ohm speakers wired in Parallel, orTwo 2 ohm subs wired in series.. all of which which would provide 4 ohms.

Just for ****s and giggles.. Try just 1 speaker and see if its stable with louder volumes.. if it is stable then your amp isn't 2 ohm stable.

 

Thanks for the help. I'll try the 1 speaker, but I know my amp is 2ohm, at least is says it is. It is an Alpine MRP-M350.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-r2zT2s5...x?I=500MRPM350

 

Futil - see my previous post for amp model, just didn't want you to miss that one. I have another question for you.

I don't really think this matters, but I'm looking for anything at this point. Where did you connect your main power wire? I assume you have a 2008 Avenger? The battery itself is pretty much unreachable. I connected my main 6ga power wire to the post up on top where it says to connect jumper cables. Is this an adequate location for battery power? It should be, if it can beused to jump start the car.

 

Thanks for posting your amp info, thathelps seeing the amp.. As you said, Your amp israted for 2 ohms.. I had an older Alpine ampthat was rated for 2 ohms but it actually couldn't handle it and would shut down so I bought a different amp..The Alpine amp i hadwas a different amp than yours so im not saying that is definitely the case with your amp but its something to look out for when dealing with Alpine amps.

Also sometimes the subwoofers actual resistance can be lower than its listed resistance.. I had a pair of subs about5 years ago thatwere rated at 4 ohms butthe resistance measured on my multimeter was actually much less than advertisedso when I wired them up expecting 2 ohms I ended up with more like .9 ohm which was enough to push my amp over the edge. They were good subs butwhoevermade themwrapped the coil incorrectly. This can also happen if you put too much power through a sub and it shorts the voice coil in just the right place.. So instead of the power traveling through the full length of the coil it jumps at the short and bypasses a length of coil it was supposed to be traveling through effectively lowering the speaker's resistance. I just wanted to put that out therejust so people are aware that just because speakers are rated at a certain resistance, itdoesn't necessarily mean that they will alwaysbe accurate. Which isn't as critical when dealing with higher resistance subs such as 8 and 4 ohmsbut when you get down to 2 ohms and you drop 1 ohm that's a big deal as far as the amp is concerned.

I do have an Avenger R/T.. I really wanted to go directly to the battery with my 4 Gauge positive cable cause its such a waste wiring it to the jumper terminal that has such a small gauge wire considering its powering the entire car and my 600 watt amp ( http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...02P&tp=115) .. but I didn't feel like taking the fender well out so I went the lazy route and ran thecable to the jumper terminal as you did. I left just enough slack in the cable to reroute it to the battery at a later time but I cant see me doing it unless it was really necessary.. Obviously its desirable to go directly to the battery but the car's positive wires aren't melting so its sufficient for powering an amplifier.

I have a 5 Farad capacitor wired in ( http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...p;i=120PP1005D)and I can stilltell that the amp ishungry for a little more power which would probably be remedied by runningthe power cable directlyto the battery because im sure the available power to the amp is limited by the thin gauge cable.. But even so the amp works great as its currently wired. Since im not entering any sound off competitions im not that worried about it and the amp definitely does not shut down or struggle using the jumper post mount.

Basically in a nutshell.. When the car's primary positive battery cablestarts melting.. you need to start thinking about relocating your power cable directly to the battery.. but otherwise you should be good..



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