Hello fellow Avengers,

My car is a 2011 Dodge Avenger with the 3.6L engine.

I bought this car new and has 120K miles.

I have been having an issue with my car. It is intermittently blowing Fuse #4.

First question for you guys is what exactly is this Fuse protecting?

I saw in one website that this fuse protects the ignition switch, the steering control module and the rear power distribution center.

On others, I only see Battery Feed -Ignition Switch


Steps that I have taken so far:

Blew the Fuse in June. Replaced fuse and car worked for a week. Replacing fuse led to fuse blowing when attempting to start the car (No crank). Fuse blows in the ON position and does not blow in the ACC position. All accessories seem to work fine. Radio Signal lights headlights, car chimes when the key is on ignition.

1. Replaced ignition switch

After replacing the switch car worked for a month with no problems until last week. I drove back from the supermarket and when I went to start it blew the fuse.

2. Removed new switch and asked for a replacment. Installed new switch and the car blew the switch.

3. Removed the TIPM to verify if there was any visible damage to the circuit board, did not see any.

4. Removed te relays and took them to Oreily to check if they were working. Relays appeared to be working on their test tool.

5. Put everything back and the car started.

6. Atempted to start later and blew fuse. Did not start.

7. Disconnected the negative terminal from the post and turned the key to the ON position for 2 minutes. Waited 15 minutes and tried to start car. Started but blew fuse 5 seconds after. The car stays on can can be used with no issues but once you turn off you cannod turn back on due to blown fuse.

8. Disconected negative terminal for one hour, replaced fuse, connected terminal again and same thing happened. Car started fuse blew seconds after.

9. Left everything the way it was and went to sleep. Next morning replaced fuse, car started no issues and did not blow fuse. Drove 10 minutes, parked car tried to start car and it started did not blow fuse.


Has anyone experienced a similar situation? I cannot rely on the car since I do not know if I drive somewhere I would be able to start it.


Thanks for your help

 

You need to check for codes,sounds like short in trans module or harness

 

Thanks, I have a code reader home I can use.
Didnt think of that because when the car works ot does not have a check engine light or any other warning light it just acts normal.

 

Just checked for codes with my reader and it didnt have any. I can drive over to Autozone later in the week and check their scanner. I just hope my car starts once its time to head back home.

 

Google said #4 fuse was trans mod,can u confirm with manual,not sure if our scanners will pick up trans codes,google not sure either,I was towed 2x due to intermittent relay problem,relay finally died after 1 month of nervous driving,I know how u feel,we all hate expensive dealers,luckily I never had to use them,

 

Just checked the manual of my car, my fuse #4 is for the ignition switch.
I have a 2011. What year is yours?

Since I have changed the ignition switch twice, and this has happened with the last switch and the 2 new ones, I think i will have to start to trace the wires to see what's going on.
I also replaced all the relays just in case. I got a pack of 5 for 25 dollars.
For the past 2 days, the car has worked with no issues.

One of the guys I know asked me if it could be the ECU but I m not sure. Since the car works fine, no loss of power, and the transmission is also shifting like it was before.

 

MINE is 2011 2.4,Sorry bout trans info from Google,intermittent SUCKS,NO CODE SUCKS,this is a tough diagnosis,chk wiring schematic,chk wiring running by exhaust,I will chk wiring schematic if I find anything I will let you know, thanks john

 

I saw this diagram online. It shows 2 things connected to that fuse. I am not sure if there could be other components wired to that fuse too.

By any chance do you know what the dashed line between wires 1-7 and 31 means?

 

I ll chk my manual

 

Dotted lines usually mean wires used for an accessory or different engine,etc. Is this a stick or automatic,,,#4 seems to go to security/start function,buy a Chilton manual,I have a Hanes manual, doesn't seem to be as good as Chilton. I know How hard it is to work on this vehicle. I just changed the crank shaft sensor which gave a code. But I had to Jack that sucker up a mile to work on it.very tough without a lift