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HELP! What's this part in my tranny pan??

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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 08:23 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by aim4squirrels
release outer set screw,

Torque to 72in/lbs.

Back off 2 turns,

Tighten outer nut to 31 ft/lbs. Do not let the inner adjustment screw move.

Do not bubba this procedure or youll be overhauling the transmission soon.
damn it. i tried what I thought was right and now drive feels like its' slipping big time. i put everything back together, turned it on, let it idle in drive for about 20 seconds with the new 4.5qts of tranny fluid so it'll get in there, then gave it some gas. it feels like i'm accelerating and not moving then it moves slowly. good thing i drove all of 15 feet.
I'm going to re torque it tomorrow. hopefully I didn't destroy it. Good thing I can torque it from the outside without having to tear it all out again. wish me luck.

ps
I realize now, though, the wedge for the strap was sitting in the pan for awhile, how can it be that I'm losing drive (first gear) just by putting it back where it goes? could it be that I have to give time for the new filter/oil to cycle? How about the new shift sensor? Need time for the tranny to get used to the new sensor?
 

Last edited by lamoglia; Mar 21, 2011 at 08:40 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:04 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by lamoglia
how can it be that I'm losing drive (first gear) just by putting it back where it goes?
Because you didn't torque it down the right way.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:09 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by J415
Because you didn't torque it down the right way.
ok will do tomorrow. the middle screw should be out all the way as i torque in or not? I appreciate you guys helping me out. I don't know what I'd do otherwise.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:50 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by lamoglia
ok will do tomorrow. the middle screw should be out all the way as i torque in or not? I appreciate you guys helping me out. I don't know what I'd do otherwise.
Aims said it best:

release outer set screw,

Torque to 72in/lbs.

Back off 2 turns,

Tighten outer nut to 31 ft/lbs. Do not let the inner adjustment screw move.

Do not bubba this procedure or youll be overhauling the transmission soon.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 10:16 PM
  #25  
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There should be no pre torque tension on the inner screw, 72 inch/lbs. is a very small amount, it's very easy to over torque it.

In your case it sounds under torqued, I would guess you backed off too much. Paint or mark a spot on the inner adjustment screw and then make sure you back out exactly 2 turns.then tighten the outer bolt tight and make sure the inner one doesn't back out or in by watching the marking you made.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 08:29 AM
  #26  
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Hmm,

Did a little more digging for you and research on the topic.

Seems there's some disagreement from the ATSG manual and the FSM regarding how much you back off the front band adjustment screw.

Here's the FSM statement:

FRONT BAND
The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw is
located on the left side of the transmission case
above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.
(1) Raise vehicle.
(2) Loosen band adjusting screw locknut (Fig. 73).
Then back locknut off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting
screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw
threads if necessary.
(3) Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in.
lbs.) torque with Inch Pound Torque Wrench
C-3380-A, a 3-in. extension and an appropriate
Torx™ socket.
CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 is needed to reach the
adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 5 N·m
(47-50 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Back off front band adjusting screw 2-7/8
turns.

(5) Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten
locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Lower vehicle.


I'd tend to trust the Field Service Manual over the ATSG manual, as Chrysler wrote that one. Try 2 7/8 turns first and see what she drives like. not sure why backing off more would help slipping, unless there's something more going on there.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 08:58 AM
  #27  
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2 7/8 is correct for front band. 2 turn back off is for rear band.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:44 AM
  #28  
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I did 2 7/8ths.

I found it easy to mark 12,9,6, and 3'oclock positions around the screw, with 7/8ths being between the 12 and three.

That way I could see my mark on the screw go around two complete turns and then 7/8ths of a turn.

Of course I thought I did all this wrong, then I realized that even though my tranny did need a re-build it was a stupid govenor pressure sensor that caused the no shift...
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 12:27 PM
  #29  
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Just do it 2 1/2 turns. The old TF727's you backed off 2 1/2 and this is a trans of the same design only this has an OD unit. Every manual I have seen, or read has a different torque sequence... some say back off two turns, some say 2 1/2, some say 2 7/8's.

Now your truck takes off in 2nd, no first? Ok.... did you disconnect the battery by chance? If so the PCM needs to re-calibrate that would explain that. However you said you put only 4.5qts in... that job takes more then that, remember you took the valve body out. Should be around 7-8qts to fill that up. You could be just low on fluid.

How long did you drive it with the tranny acting up? I.E. before you found that part in the pan??
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 08:27 PM
  #30  
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ok, so got out there today. kept turning the middle screw (after loosening the outer almost completely off) and kept turning and turning and turning......obviously the damn thing unhinged again. will disassemble yet again and get it torqued before putting everything back in.

on another note, legend was right about the amount of fluid. got up to 7.5qts and its much much tighter. no slipping (in the 100ft i moved up and down on). HOWEVER, I do here some squishing and wooshing of liquid under me to the right (where the tranny is) when i'm testing it. is it just filling all the nooks and crannies up with fluid again? will it go away after I travel more than just up and down the driveway? what say you? when i reassemble (probably tomorrow or friday) will let you know how it's going.

getting closer...........
 
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