0.72V is the stock voltage! Its just not always set up properly from the factory, as in my case it was about 0.5V.

I realise that the IAC is the air control valve on the throttle body but as its controlled by the engine management, how do you adjust or re-set the idle speed?

 

o worry , iddint know and that would have been my first try

 

huh i swear .425~.450 was stock...

 

I just set it to 0.72V as it says in the "Tips" sticky at the top of the page that its the optimum setting. You might be right about it being 0.425-0.450 stock. Mine was about 0.5 and when adjusted to 0.72, it went a lot better, especially off the line where there used to be a bit of hesitance if you floored it too hard away from the lights.
The thing that puzzels me most about all of this is the fact that the warning lights don't come on when it stalls. No Oil or Charging lights. Only after re-starting it do I get the usual ABS, Air-Bag etc run though and they go off when they should.
If its just a case of the engine re-learning its base settings, how long does it normally take?

 

you done this...

To reset computer... Remove the NEG terminal from your battery.
Take your key and put in to START and hold there for 10 to 15 seconds.
Put key to off. Reconnect your battery. Finished.

after reset:
start let it idle for oh 5 min.... turn off

start... then drive around no WOT just nice drive for 10 min...turn off

start...then drive normaly...

 

Thanks, I shall try that tomorrow. If this is the recognised procidure following the battery being disconected, I would have hoped that the garage would have already done this but you can never tell, it was a Dodge dealer after all!

 

id doubt it, sure they charged ya for it tho

 

Your not the only one to have that problem after using those parts. On another forum, several people installed cams from that place and due to the cam specs from those re-grinds, they had constant stalling and surging. They messed with MAP sensors and TPS but it was Low Engine Vacum caused by the cams not operating the sensors correctly. They ended up removing them and going with the HO cam and manifold for set up for 30 hp gain and all was ok.

 

^^ ve3ry good point

 

Hi Travis,
I re-set the computer as per your instructions and it only stalled once in over 100 miles of mixed driving. That's a lot better than when I first drove it, (must have stalled around six times in a day with less miles) but it still feels like its going to stall in certain conditions. The engine just about catches itself but the revs drop too low before picking up. Apart from when it nearly stalls when slowing down, it idles perfectly. Wouldn't Low Engine Vacuum show up as a fault code? I've already checked for codes and there are none. The other mystory is why don't any warning lights come on when the engine stops?
I can't afford to go through removing them again, so really need to get it sorted. I can't belive such a well known and respected company would be selling such a flawed product. I'm taking it back to the dealer tomorrow to see if there's anything they missed. As I said in my opening post, I found they'd left a vacuum pipe off when I got it home.