dakota rt trouble
i have a 2002 rt and i've done intake and headers and true dual flowmaster exhaust with o2 trickers but i am having alot of trouble codes come up like 6 out of 8 injectormalfuntion codes, left bank lean code, o2 sensor code, and my abs, park brake, and engine light are all on and the truck will not run hardly at all at idle and when it is working up hills orn under any load it starts missing and pours fuel out the exhaustpipes. if anyone knows anything to help that would be awsome. thanks
you could have a vacumm leak, and your Fuel Timing could be way off, you will need to check it a DRBIII or a OBDII Scanner and see what the Fuel Sync is set at. 5+ is no good and will run really rich, the distributer hold down bolt could have came loose and the distributer turned and messed it all up, causing it to be all ****ed up on when the fuel dumped, running way to rich can give you 02 codes and missfires, as for the vacumm leak i was talking about, that can mess some things up to.
My truck use to do the same things as yours, i worked at NTB at the time, so i hooked up an Snapon OBDII scanner and looked at the sync it was running at +6,+8 i reset it to 0,+1 and truck ran a little smoother, i also replaced all the vacumm hoses and cut my cruise control out and closed the hole. Truck ran alot better, and hasnt missfired since then.
Also what o2 tricks did you do? Those can send the pcm singnals to dump fuel when running to lean and cause misfires and really rich exhuast. I know with my r/t i had to unplu my 1/1 o2 infront of the cat to get my truck to run, i still havent found out the problem, i think its getting shorted by another wire, but when it was connected the truck at idle would want to die and start loping real bad like i had huge cam, and really backfire at WOT so bad that it would blow fire out my intake and make my airhat pop off.....
My truck use to do the same things as yours, i worked at NTB at the time, so i hooked up an Snapon OBDII scanner and looked at the sync it was running at +6,+8 i reset it to 0,+1 and truck ran a little smoother, i also replaced all the vacumm hoses and cut my cruise control out and closed the hole. Truck ran alot better, and hasnt missfired since then.
Also what o2 tricks did you do? Those can send the pcm singnals to dump fuel when running to lean and cause misfires and really rich exhuast. I know with my r/t i had to unplu my 1/1 o2 infront of the cat to get my truck to run, i still havent found out the problem, i think its getting shorted by another wire, but when it was connected the truck at idle would want to die and start loping real bad like i had huge cam, and really backfire at WOT so bad that it would blow fire out my intake and make my airhat pop off.....
1) I know you say you triple checked the wires, but go quadruple check them - having misfires across the board is a classic symptom of having everything 1 or 2 spots out of rotation from the distributor to the plugs.
2) Closely examine all of your O2 sensor wiring to make sure there isn't any pinches, exposed wiring, etc... The +5VDC that goes to the O2 sensors is shared by other components on the truck, a number of people have had massive problems with their trucks because an O2 sensor wire got shorted out.
3) Temporarily remove your O2 SIMMs and re-install the OEM O2 sensors. If you don't have O2 bungs in place to put them back in the pipes anymore, use zip ties to lash them to the frame rail - make sure the sensor itself isn't touching anything because theyhave internal heaters and can get pretty hot. Reset your PCM and drive around for a couple of days, see if you get a zillion O2-related codes... If they disappear, you may have had a bum set of SIMMs or you didn't have them wired properly.
2) Closely examine all of your O2 sensor wiring to make sure there isn't any pinches, exposed wiring, etc... The +5VDC that goes to the O2 sensors is shared by other components on the truck, a number of people have had massive problems with their trucks because an O2 sensor wire got shorted out.
3) Temporarily remove your O2 SIMMs and re-install the OEM O2 sensors. If you don't have O2 bungs in place to put them back in the pipes anymore, use zip ties to lash them to the frame rail - make sure the sensor itself isn't touching anything because theyhave internal heaters and can get pretty hot. Reset your PCM and drive around for a couple of days, see if you get a zillion O2-related codes... If they disappear, you may have had a bum set of SIMMs or you didn't have them wired properly.



