you dont need to worry about the latch since yours is under the grille, on our dakots we gotta stick our fingers through the top of our grille to pop the hood open completely.

 

This is pretty sweet. Looks a hell of a lot better thant he LMC bar grills I found.

 

here it is bryant this should bump it to the top of our section

 

Just kinda a check up. Have you found a way to put the gutter gaurd in the bumper, or have you not had time. thanks for the great write up.

 

i actually still haven't gotten around to doing that but if i ever do i will def let you guys know

 

thanks cale, appreciate it

 

no prob

 

Just bought the gutter material tonight. I will be doing this either saturday or sunday. If I remember.....I'l take pics when I've completed.

I do have an idea for my Dakota and the hood latch though. I'm not sure If I want to run the same set up as you. I might still go with a small cut-out, but I have some 1/8 wide door edge molding with adhesive on the inside portion of the molding. It's pretty flexible and I think I will make the small cut-out and then put the edge molding around the edges of the cut-out. I also have some other edge molding material (a little wider and a little taller profile that I could use if the other doesn't pan out)

Your thoughts??

 

what about using jb weld to do the bottom portion down by the fog lights
i was looking at it today and that seems the easiest

i could be painting the mesh red to match the rest of the stickers on my truck
i havent decided yet

 

Hey wusup guys, im new to the forum, and i just stumbled upon this thread, cause i recently a few weeks ago did the same thing with the metal mesh,

Technically you can get away with using only 3 pieces of mess at 1.98 a piece.

if you cut them directly in half you only need 2 pieces to do the top grille,

And i can see where you were having a problem with the lower grille.

YES!!!, it is and was a pain in the butt.

What i did was take off the 6-7 lower Torx screws and i attached little hooks then screwed the torx back in so there was about 1/4" of the small metal hook. this was used to hold the top piece of the mesh down so i can work the bottom, if you do this just right there will be about 1/4" of mesh left on the bottom which you can fold underneath and i used silver duct tape for ductboard. which clings to plastic very well, and its completely unnoticeable.


You really just gotta get down in there with your mesh wire and start manuevering things around, the bottom is hard but once you jam it down in there it will stay...

heres a picture of how mine came out