Thread Starter
I have a 02 dakota R/T 5.9 just lookin for some opinions on how to build it up from whether its small upgrades to big ones if you have a suggestion let me know it would be appreciated.
Record Breaker
moe in wichita ks
years ago i built a few engines, old school stuff. a devideing line for power vs not wasting gas is 264 degree cam thats advertised duration, not .05 lift get brass freeze plugs, and lock them in with j-b weld.
the most important thing about oil is to have lots of zinc in the oil. i have done some searching on the internet on oil, filters, additives. i like to have oil as thick as i can and it still start in cold. so here is what i use, 2001 dak v6. valoline premium blue 15w-40 oil. purolator pl14670 pure one filter, use only a pure one filter that is shown by the p in the part no. the long version is pl30001 however it may not fit all frames . then you need to go to zddplus.com site and get some zinc from them. my truck starts ok in the winter, but we normaly dont get below 0 f.
years ago i built a few engines, old school stuff. a devideing line for power vs not wasting gas is 264 degree cam thats advertised duration, not .05 lift get brass freeze plugs, and lock them in with j-b weld.
the most important thing about oil is to have lots of zinc in the oil. i have done some searching on the internet on oil, filters, additives. i like to have oil as thick as i can and it still start in cold. so here is what i use, 2001 dak v6. valoline premium blue 15w-40 oil. purolator pl14670 pure one filter, use only a pure one filter that is shown by the p in the part no. the long version is pl30001 however it may not fit all frames . then you need to go to zddplus.com site and get some zinc from them. my truck starts ok in the winter, but we normaly dont get below 0 f.
use one can zddplus as an assy lube and one in the oil. when you start a new engine bring the rpm to 2000 and keep there for 20 min or more, and keep checking for overheating, oil, coolant leeks. if someing goes wrong shut the engine at full rpm, no mater what happens dont let it idle, till it gets a full 20 min. at rpm. this is for cam breakin. the 2000 rpm is to make sure the cam gets enough oil and isnt dry till the cam is broke in
Record Breaker
cold air intake, larger ported and polished throttle body, m1 intake, full exhaust, hotter cam, solid valvetrain work with roller rockers, aftermarket cylinder heads, custom pcm flash
in that order for the most part, you may need to get a custom pcm flash when you do a cam swap, otherwise it wont run right. but basically, you want to improve the intake side of the engine first, then exhaust.
in that order for the most part, you may need to get a custom pcm flash when you do a cam swap, otherwise it wont run right. but basically, you want to improve the intake side of the engine first, then exhaust.
Veteran
Definately look at the MOPAR M1 intake. Not too many HP at peak, but 40-50 at the meat of the RPM range. Good stuff