I use Mobil 1 and will until Im prob dead. I use Amsoil in my bike, and might switch to my truck after my Mobil supply runs out, cause, well, I can get it at dealer prices....But yea, Id say almost any full syn is great, filter, I just use mopars. thought about others, but ummm, these were kinda free

I go at 5K intervals cause, well, its fine to do that with a full syn. Also, I need to add a hair now and then...just to be safe

 

That is only true when running flat tappet cams,running a diesel engine or a break in oil. The EPA has even reduced the amounts of ZPPD in engine oils. Take Mobile1 Full Synthetic 5W30...it contains around 900PPM of Zinc and 800PPM of Phosphorus. Same with their FS 10W-30 and FS 5W-20. Only when you get into their Performance Based engine oils to you find more PPM of ZDDP, with their diesel oils having about 1100PPM and the racing oils around 1200PPM. Shell Rotella T was often used by classic car guys running the flat tappet cams because of it's ZDDP content, but it also has been reduced.. Another thing to consider about adding ZDDP to a newer engine is that it can destroy a CAT. The metals in your engine do not need ZDDP, so why add it?

 

Oh boy another oil thread lol. Seriously, IMO synthetics are not worth it for your simple daily driver. I agree completely with Jimmy (silvercc), a decent synthetic blend (I use valvoline durablend or conventional) will be good enough. The filter is the important part and like silvercc said, WIX filters are the best filter you can buy. I bet you could run supertech for the whole life of a vehicle and it last every bit as long as running an oil twice as expensive. I kind of think it's crazy to be using expensive synthetics (M1, Castrol, ect) in a daily driver with 100+k on them like a lot of people do. Not worth it and not necessary. This isn't a drag car here. It's a Dakota lol.

Don't mean to come off as an a$$ or anythnig, I just think it's funny how people get so caught up in expensive synthetics like their truck won't run unless it has oil that's $7 a quart. A good filter with any certified oil is all you need.

Again, my opinion, take it for what it's worth.

 

^^^what he said.

I should add though that I don't use Maxlife any more. I switched from that to regular white bottle Valvoline conventional and then to Napa/Carquest house brand, which is almost exactly the same as Valvoline. My truck was a little slow and sluggish on Maxlife. I ran the Napa/CQ oil for about 2 years then last year I changed over to Quaker State conventional and started running a Purolator Premium Plus (Purolator Classic) filter. It's a good combination, my truck runs great on QS and the QS is a great oil with a great additive pack. When it is on sale I can buy it for less than the Napa/Carquest house brand. The Proselect filter is OK and will do fine for a normal 3,000 mile oil chage interval. But I like the Purolator a little better, it has a better filtering media and flows just as well as a Proselect. Wix and Wix branded filters (Napa Gold, Carquest Blue are a re-badged Wix) work great, are probably the best filter you can buy at the parts store but I can't see spending 6 or 7 bucks on an oil filter when I always change my oil at or before 3,000 miles anyway.

It really is just a matter of personal preference. Any good oil and most any filter will be fine for a normal 3K oil change interval. It's not rocket science. I have a stash of QS and Puro Classics right now that will last me until about January of 2012, and I only paid $2.17 per each quart and $2.17 per each filter. I bought a bunch of oil and filters at Advance last year when they had the combo 5 quart and a filter for $12.99 deal. I keep my eyes open for oil and filter deals and stock up when I can.


Jimmy

 

Maxlife is not an energy conserving oil, may be why it felt sluggish.

 

i run the napa brand oil(valvoline re-named) and have had good luck with it. i go 5-6k in between changes, and that seems fine. if i did 3000 miles i would change it in under a month, all hwy driving here.

 

I personally use Valvoline Synpower because they use more Zn dithiophosphate (anti-wear additive), but since you are stuck on the brands you mention--
WalMart has Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Platinum for about $5/qt in 5 qt bottles. They also have MoPar filters at competitive prices; I personally use Purolator PureOne, but MoPar filters are good.
Stick with the 5W-30 year round. You won't have shearing issues with a good synthetic like you might with a dino oil because synthetics are more naturally stable, so the oil should stay in grade for 5000 miles. I used to use Amsoil, but got tired of paying over $8/qt; doubt if it's that much better.

 

94 dak have used 5w,10w, high mileage, and M1. Have used addatives for increased bearing protection etc. M-1 seems best although expensive. A tip I learned many years ago when I had Corvairs. If you can hear the lifters/valves tapping change the filter. When the pushrod seals needed changed on the corvair the engine was so clean they took pictures and requested what maintenance schedule I was on and sent it to g.m. Oil & filter are the life of the engine. DO NOT USE FRAM! Pull up filters online and see how they are made.

 

i tried conventional oil and my engine wouldn't turn over. i had to drain it and put in full synth......kidding. i agree with what you said brad and jimmy, but im one of thoes people that uses full synth. peace of mind. i dont mind spending a few bucks more for it.

 

Any good brand-name filter, other than Fram (just dont seem to like them), and a good name-brand syn-blend at oem weights & changed at recommended intervals. Whatever is name brand and on sale 170,000 on my 2003, still runs excellent and is used almost everyday. My humble 2cents