Brake Line issue
#1
Brake Line issue
Hello everybody. I was pulling into my neighborhood yesterday and the pedal went straight to the floor as I hit the brakes. When I got home I noticed a puddle under the cab. Got down there to investigate and found that the metal brake line had split open between the gas tank and the cab. I went onto the auto parts websites and they only have the rubber hose for the front and rear of the line. Searched the web and didn't see anything about it. Anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks, yes I am a noob.
Thanks, yes I am a noob.
#2
RE: Brake Line issue
moe in wichita ks
to repair steel break lines you need to know a few things. first use ONLY steel tubing made for break lines. all flairs MUST be double flairs. use a flairing tool made for double flairs. dont forget to put the nut on before flairing. all bends must not have any kinks this means using a bending tool. put a small amount of anti-sieze compond on the nut threads and on the tubing under the nut. in 30k miles you will thank me.
here is a list of tools you need
1 tubing cutter
2 flairing tool double flair
3 bending tool
4 tubing wrinchs must have
5 anti-sieze compond
to repair steel break lines you need to know a few things. first use ONLY steel tubing made for break lines. all flairs MUST be double flairs. use a flairing tool made for double flairs. dont forget to put the nut on before flairing. all bends must not have any kinks this means using a bending tool. put a small amount of anti-sieze compond on the nut threads and on the tubing under the nut. in 30k miles you will thank me.
here is a list of tools you need
1 tubing cutter
2 flairing tool double flair
3 bending tool
4 tubing wrinchs must have
5 anti-sieze compond
#3
RE: Brake Line issue
I just went to the local dealership and bought new factory lines for mine. It wasn't really that expensive and everything was already pre-bent to fit the truck so no special tools needed other than maybe a set of line wrenches. Be prepared to replace several lines though... I had to with mine at least. Each time I put a new line somewhere a new leak would pop up elsewhere. I would go ahead and replace the rubber lines as well. If the steel lines are old enough to rot out and burst then the rubber lines are most likely swollen internally also. THe rear line isn't too bad to replace but it will take some wrestling with to get it into place along the frame rails and you have to be careful not to bend/kink the new line during the install. An extra pair of hands wouldn't hurt either.
moe- Good idea with using the anti-seize compound...wish I had thought of that when I did mine.
moe- Good idea with using the anti-seize compound...wish I had thought of that when I did mine.