2nd Gen Dakota Tech 1997 - 2004 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 2nd Gen Dakota.

Need help with 4.7L overheating issue.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 09-07-2008, 07:42 PM
hitthegas1's Avatar
hitthegas1
hitthegas1 is offline
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Need help with 4.7L overheating issue.

My 2000 4.7L overheats. I've replaced the pump, thermostat, clutch fan, and coolant (correctly). When flushing the radiator with a garden hose on full, there is plenty of volume coming out but there is some back pressure. If the heater is turned on, the temp will stabilize and even cool the engine. This leads me to suspect the radiator yet like I said it has good flow.
Would the O2 sensor or any other sensor be the cause. Does anyone know of a similar problem or cause? Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 09-10-2008, 07:51 PM
65ply's Avatar
65ply
65ply is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Your heads are most likey warped.did it overheat severly several times and get extremely hot.if so,yes they maybe warped.how low was the coolant before repairs?.the only ways to make sur is do a cyl leakage test or take the heads off and chk warpage with a flat edge.
 
  #3  
Old 09-10-2008, 08:31 PM
f0x672's Avatar
f0x672
f0x672 is offline
Champion
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: poconos, pa
Posts: 2,530
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

if you have access to a cooling system pressure tester than you're set. disconnect the radiator cap, with the engine cool and the system not under pressure, and connect the pressure tester too the radiator filler tube. put the system under 15 psi, do not exceed 21 psi or damage can occur. if the needle stay at 15 psi for around 2 minutes then you're system will most likely check out. if the need drops slowly then you have a small leak. check around the water pump and your hoses. if it drops quickly then you definitely have big issues. before you even go to remove your cylinder heads to check for coolant blow by into the crankcase or the combustion chamber, remove your drain plug and drain your oil out, just a little bit, note what comes out, color, etc. if it comes out green, thats an internal leak since water is heavier than oil. if it's milky, still an internal leak. another way to check the system pressure is to put the pressure gauge on the filler tube and start the engine. if pressure builds immediately, you have either a crack in your block or a head/head gasket problem. should build slowly. if that needle doesnt build up, pump the tester to 21 psi and note if it fluctuates or not, fluctuation indicates cylinder leakage. if it doesnt move then race the engine a few times to see if it abnormally fluctuates and see if you notice an sweet smell or steam coming from the exhaust pipe.

also, are you sure it's overheating and it's not your temp sensor on its way out?
 
  #4  
Old 09-10-2008, 08:49 PM
cars01010's Avatar
cars01010
cars01010 is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Saratoga N.Y.
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The raditor is usualy blocked at the fins where it meets the side tanks, But the damage has already been done.do a co2 test to confirm but the heads are very easily warped.
 
  #5  
Old 09-10-2008, 11:25 PM
rtdakota2001's Avatar
rtdakota2001
rtdakota2001 is offline
Record Breaker
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,434
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

i dont wanna be a dick, BUT THAT SUCKS
 



Quick Reply: Need help with 4.7L overheating issue.



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:23 AM.