00 dakota help w master/slave cyl bleeder
#1
12-20-2009, 01:29 PM
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#2
12-20-2009, 02:14 PM
There is no bleed valve. Dodge did not want to make the system servicable for some unknown reason. I did not know back when I swapped my truck over to a manual and took apart the hydraulic system, so I figured out a way to bleed it. Unfortunately, I got no pictures, but here is the procedure the best I can word it:
First, pull the pin that holds the hydraulic line to the master cylinder and seperate them. Next, take a small diameter hose (like a chainsaw fuel line or something similar) and slide it over the end of the fitting on the master cylinder end of the line. Stick the other end of the hose into a bottle of brake fluid. Now make sure the bottle of fluid is the lowest point of the contraption, and the master cylinder end is the highest, with the slave cylinder in between and the line somewhat taught. This will let the air rise to the top (which is the end of the hydraulic line) and the fluid will rest on the bottom (in the slave cylinder). Now, slowly pump the slave cylinder until you stop seeing air bubbles in the brake fluid bottle... and make sure that the hose never comes out of the bottle. When the air bubbles have stopped, carefully put the line back into the master cylinder and pin it back in place. Important: while you are putting the line back in, have someone dump brake fluid in the resevior so it pours out the master cylinder. This will help keep the air getting in the system to a minimum. Now, there will be a little air that gets in at the top that still needs to come out, so pump the slave cylinder slowly a couple more times until the air bubbles stop coming out of the resevior (make sure while you are doing this that the resevoir stays full of fluid!). When the bubbles stop, top off the resevoir, put the cap back on and your done.
Anyway, this worked for me and I haven't had a problem since.
First, pull the pin that holds the hydraulic line to the master cylinder and seperate them. Next, take a small diameter hose (like a chainsaw fuel line or something similar) and slide it over the end of the fitting on the master cylinder end of the line. Stick the other end of the hose into a bottle of brake fluid. Now make sure the bottle of fluid is the lowest point of the contraption, and the master cylinder end is the highest, with the slave cylinder in between and the line somewhat taught. This will let the air rise to the top (which is the end of the hydraulic line) and the fluid will rest on the bottom (in the slave cylinder). Now, slowly pump the slave cylinder until you stop seeing air bubbles in the brake fluid bottle... and make sure that the hose never comes out of the bottle. When the air bubbles have stopped, carefully put the line back into the master cylinder and pin it back in place. Important: while you are putting the line back in, have someone dump brake fluid in the resevior so it pours out the master cylinder. This will help keep the air getting in the system to a minimum. Now, there will be a little air that gets in at the top that still needs to come out, so pump the slave cylinder slowly a couple more times until the air bubbles stop coming out of the resevior (make sure while you are doing this that the resevoir stays full of fluid!). When the bubbles stop, top off the resevoir, put the cap back on and your done.
Anyway, this worked for me and I haven't had a problem since.
