Need headers!
Shorties are just fancy stock headers, if you want performance, go mid or long. Here is a set of PPHs not made anymore for dirt cheap. You better buy them asap as they will not last long...
http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=108278
http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=108278
I completely disagree with that! The factory exhaust manifold (they are NOT called headers) is a large open chamber with no real direction to it. The biggest idea behind a good exhaust system is to keep the velocity of the exhaust gasses as high as you can. When the exhaust is dumped into this open chamber from every cylinder on that bank, it creates a lot of turbulence, which translates to very low velocity and more backpressure. Even shorty headers have an individual tube per cylinder to give the exhaust gasses direction right out of the heads and the velocity up.
The point of longtubes is to equalize the length of each tube to tune the exhaust system... in other words, design it to create a vacuum at the collector, which shortys can't do. This is great in high performance racing applications, where the intake is designed to work with that free flowing of an exhaust system. Its not so great on an otherwise mostly factory engine where too much exhaust flow will hinder the intake's ability to function properly.
The point of longtubes is to equalize the length of each tube to tune the exhaust system... in other words, design it to create a vacuum at the collector, which shortys can't do. This is great in high performance racing applications, where the intake is designed to work with that free flowing of an exhaust system. Its not so great on an otherwise mostly factory engine where too much exhaust flow will hinder the intake's ability to function properly.
I completely disagree with that! The factory exhaust manifold (they are NOT called headers) is a large open chamber with no real direction to it. The biggest idea behind a good exhaust system is to keep the velocity of the exhaust gasses as high as you can. When the exhaust is dumped into this open chamber from every cylinder on that bank, it creates a lot of turbulence, which translates to very low velocity and more backpressure. Even shorty headers have an individual tube per cylinder to keep the exhaust gasses moving.
The point of longtubes is to equalize the length of each tube to tune the exhaust system... in other words, design it to create a vacuum at the collector, which shortys can't do. This is great in high performance racing applications, where the intake is designed to work with that free flowing of an exhaust system. Its not so great on an otherwise mostly factory engine where too much exhaust flow will hinder the intake's ability to function properly.
The point of longtubes is to equalize the length of each tube to tune the exhaust system... in other words, design it to create a vacuum at the collector, which shortys can't do. This is great in high performance racing applications, where the intake is designed to work with that free flowing of an exhaust system. Its not so great on an otherwise mostly factory engine where too much exhaust flow will hinder the intake's ability to function properly.
I was making a sarcastic joke calling the shorties stock headers as in even though they are headers they act as if they are stock... Yeah it went over your head. Its ok. I forgive you.
the point i was making is that the gains from Shorties VS Mid to long to Stock EXHAUST MANIFOLDS is worthless. Shorties are more for looks then functionality compared to mid or long. Dyno's have proven this, i had a set of Gibson shorties on mine when i bought they where pure junk. I swapped themn out for a set of Mopar PPhs and changed from a stock exhaust to a 3in single and got a noticeable gain.
I posted the link to these headers because they are cheap, rare, and in the long run he wont waste money when he wants to modify his motor even more.
Why buy pieces of **** your going to have to replace later on when they are causing a bottleneck when you can simply buy the right thing the first time and save time and money in the long run.
But i do agree with what you said buddy, i know how exhaust works, you need to learn how sarcasm works then come lecture me again about that.
Hey bpark, the wheels on my truck are from American Racing. I can get a pic up soon if you like, but right now they're not much to look at because of all the sh*t on the roads. I can get one by this weekend though if you'd like
Yeah that would be awesome. Just PM me with the pic, and if you remember the specific model name or number that would be cool too, or at least where you got them. I was set on black cragars till I saw your truck. Looks awesome man. Just PM me so we don't jack this thread more then we already have. Thanks
Either way back on topic.
To the OP: I suggest you go with the headers i linked in my first post in this topic. Getting shorties in the long run will waste your time and money. Go with the tri y design, Either Mopar PPH or the Spin-tech headers. get them Ceramic coated not wrapped, the wrapped headers have a high chance of cracking. 2 of the people in my local club have had bad things happen when using wraps, they also look like ****. I suggest a good ceramic coat or a flat black jet hot coating.
Here is what mine looked like after i had the ypipe and headers coated.

and you can see what they looked like installed from the following link to my site..
http://www.dfwdakotas.com/DFWDakotaS...er_photos.html
i havnt had any problems what so ever on my gibsons i got on my 4.7l
http://www.gibsonexhaust.com/headers/
http://www.gibsonexhaust.com/headers/
Last edited by moparman_2004; Feb 12, 2010 at 05:01 PM.
The truth is if the engine is not going to see more performance parts added other than a mild cam or so then shorties will be the best choice for performance and money and time. Most shorite headers bolt up to stock exhaust. They are a good price. They will improve exhaust flow over stock. But don't expect high HP from that one upgrade. It is just one piece of the total performance package to get the better HP numbers.
If your building a RACE motor with a stoker motor or a supercharger or something HIGH PERFORMANCE then Mid to long tube headers will be beneficial. With larger exhaust pipes all the way back. And if you are building a race motor then you don't want to buy 2 sets of headers. Go ahead and buy one set.
And the OP wants inexpensive headers. So with long tube headers you have to cut the exhaust up. Weld in new flanges. And the stock exhaust pipe is probably to small for the long tube headers to do any good. You'll get good flow out through the headers. Then once it hits the factory pipes you loose all the flow you just gained.
If your building a RACE motor with a stoker motor or a supercharger or something HIGH PERFORMANCE then Mid to long tube headers will be beneficial. With larger exhaust pipes all the way back. And if you are building a race motor then you don't want to buy 2 sets of headers. Go ahead and buy one set.
And the OP wants inexpensive headers. So with long tube headers you have to cut the exhaust up. Weld in new flanges. And the stock exhaust pipe is probably to small for the long tube headers to do any good. You'll get good flow out through the headers. Then once it hits the factory pipes you loose all the flow you just gained.



