Whether he uses the line-level converter or not, he will still have to splice into the speaker wires to hook up to the amp, correct?

So, the only reason to buy the extra parts (the line-level converters) would be if the amp did not have a high-level input on it. If it does have the high-level input on it, it will also have the gain control. Exactly the same thing as you get by buying the line-level converter.

Here is a link to an amp install kit from Crutchfield:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA8/...all+kits&ssi=0

Note, however, it includes RCA cables that can't be used on the stock stereo, unless you also buy the line-level converters.

The fuse block looks a little cheesy to me also, but I just may be more picky than most. Finally, I am guessing those ring connectors are just crimped to the wire. Crimped connections tend to work loose over time.

I have a story...

I had an extended cab Ranger before I bought my Dakota. The stereo in it rocked. I spent quite a bit in parts (Kenwood Excelon head unit, mono amp, JL Audio subs, Boston speakers, 4 channel amp, 1.5 farad capacitor for the subs). I paid someone at a car audio shop to "professionally" install the system. They used 8 gauge wire and a 60 amp fuse for the mono amp. It worked great for three months. One day (it was a sunny Friday afternoon), I started up my truck and smoke began creeping out from under the hood. I shut it off. Then flames shot out around the hood. When I had the fire out and was able to inspect the damage, I found that my 8 guage wire had rubbed against the firewall to the point where there was no insulation left on it. It shorted out and somehow caught all of the insulation on the wires to the alternator and battery on fire. ALL OF THE WIRES. Not just the wires to my amp. They were dripping hot plastic everywhere. That, in turn, caused all of the factory plastic plugs and shielding around the factory wiring to catch on fire as well. The fuse never popped. Cost me a week of not having a vehicle to drive plus the time to rewire everything. Now, I have no idea why the fuse didn't pop. But, I do know why that insulation rubbed off of the power lead for the amp. Because it was 8 gauge wire. The insulation on 8 gauge is about 1/16" thick. Cut it in half and look at it, then compare it to the insulation on 4 gauge welding power wire. There is no comparison.

Now, it may be that no one else on the planet has ever had my specific problem. Perhaps I have the only experience with insulation on 8 gauge wire being rubbed through leading to a short, combined with a non-working 60 amp fuse. I do not know. But, when I re-connected everything with the 4 gauge, that problem did not repeat. I had the truck for another couple of years.

The point is that the power demands of the amp are not the only thing that should be considered when wiring it. This is a wire that is going to be in the engine bay of the truck. That wire needs to be protected from heat, oil, water, and vibration. Otherwise, it looks, to me at least, like a disaster waiting to happen. So, go ahead and use the 8 gauge, because it will, in fact, support most typical installations. But, if you go that route, make sure you cover that wire up with something. At least get some of the plastic tubing crap to run the wire in.

 

Sorry to know that happened to you. I have seen similar problems here and there when I used to install for a living. I have seen power wires short out and get so hot that the fuse itself melted, shortingthe metal parts inside the fuse together and defeating the purpose of the fuse and causing a fire. Usually when a power wire shorts out it's because there is no grommet for it running through the firewall. Lucky for us here, there are a number of good places to go through the firewall on a Dakota. Whether it's 8 gauge, 4 gauge or any other wire, wire must always be run through an existing grommet or a new grommet drilled into the firewall and you should always use split loom tubing and zip ties to protect the wire and keep it out of the way of engine parts, brake and clutch pedals and all that. Keep the right amperage fuse within 3 to 6 inches of your power connection and there should never be any problems. Unfortunately, there have been and always will be installers that don't care enough to do the job correctly. That goes for professionals and DIY'ers. I saw plenty of that in my installation days and I always learned from others' mistakes and paid attention to what I was doing.

Usually you get better sound and more control and adjustment capability if you use a separate line output convertor. Especially with the higher power factory head units they have nowadays. I never really cared much for built in high level input convertors, but they can work. How the OP gets a signal to his amp is his own choice, so long as it is done correctly.

Jimmy

 

i asked a simple question and get the most complicated answers lol all i wanted to know is if the stock head unit had seperate sub outputs or if i would have to use the regular speaker outputs

 

I don't know about anyone else, but sometimes I get bored...