Extended cab. 4.7L.

Having an issue with my power window. It starts to go down ok, but anywhere from 1/4 to 2/3 of the way down it stops. Then it takes me forever to get it back up. It will move about 1/2 inch at a time, then the motor stops. I have to wait a few minutes and try again. I know it's stopping because of the motor overload circuit. I have taken the door apart, but I have no idea how to tell if it's the motor failing or the scissor-type regulator that's the problem. Can't get them as a kit, have to buy them separately.

If someone could give me some pointers on how to isolate the problem and fix it, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

Ohm the motor and if it has high resistance (higher than 1 ohm) Then its junk.

 

The regulator and/or power window motor is probably bad. Next time it stops and won't move, whack the flat part of the door panel above the map pocket with your hand. If the window works after that, the motor is bad. Or if you have the door panel off, tap the motor with a small hammer for the same test.

Dodge doesn't sell the motor separately, you have to buy the regulator and motor as an assembly. You can try a junk yard for just the motor itself but that is taking a gamble and probably a waste of money to buy electrical parts from a junk yard. The motor can be removed from the regulator and replaced by itself though.

It is very easy to replace the regulator/motor assembly. I used to do about 6 or 8 of them a week when I worked at a Chrysler-Jeep dealer. Regulator failure and broken regulator cables are pretty common repairs on Dodge, Chrysler and Jeeps. A new regulator assembly will probably run about $100 to $120 from the Dodge dealer, depending on where you live.

Jimmy

 

Well, I feel a little dumb now. I work in electronic repair, you would think I would have thought of ohm'ing the motor. As far as replacement motor/regulator, the nearest Dodge dealer is about 50 miles (they closed the one here even before the bankruptcy), and the only thing I've been able to find online are the Dorman parts. Are they any good?

 

Dorman should be OK. I have read some posts where guys used Dorman parts and didn't have any problems with them. I have never used them but I would think as long as it is the right part and fits your truck they should be fine.

Jimmy

 

WAIT! Before you order a motor assembly if you haven't found out the motor is bad for sure! Mine was doing the exact same thing. Remove 5-6 screws holding the door panel on and then lift the door panel up and towards you to free it (window down). You will have to disconnect the lock linkage, door latch linkage (plastic clips) and wiring harnesses to remove the door panel. You will also have to pull back the moisture barrier to gain access to the inside of the door, which will stick right back up to the factory caulk when you're done. Then use some silicone spray and spray the window track felts liberally. Also make sure that none of the screws or bolts are loose for the tracks and window mechanism (I had one that had backed out a little). Reassembly is in reverse. Make sure that the linkages are not interfering with anything in the door and that the anti-rattle "socks" they are covered with are towards the rear of the linkage. After doing this my driver side window will now beat the passenger side window up and down in a race!

 

OK. It works somewhat now. I tried the silicone spray on all tracks and on all the pivot points on the scissors mechanism. It works better, but still hangs up at the 1/4 of the way down point. If I wait a minute, then it'll go all the way down. Then I have to wait a few again before I can raise it. So it's better than it was, but still not right. Guess I'm going to have to buy new parts after all. I keep reading about how you can lose a finger taking these parts out due to a spring. Any hints? Thanks.

 

The motor is very likely on its way out and is weak, which is why you have to wait to get the window to move. It's best just to go ahead on and replace the regulator and motor as an assembly. There are no springs in the regulator assembly that I know of. The regulator is just two metal pieces with a cable running between them. The cable moves as the window moves up and down. It can be a squeeze getting the old regulator out and the new one into the door cavity, but really it is a pretty easy job.

Run the window all the way down. Then remove the door panel and moisture barrier, and looking through the access holes in the bottom of the door you should see two nuts holding the old regulator to the bottom of the window itself. Remove those, and slide the window all the way back up by hand and duct tape it in place. Unplug the power window motor. Then remove the nuts holding the sides of the regulator assembly to the door, there are about 8 total, and there are also 3 (I think) nuts that hold the motor to the door. Collapse the regulator/motor assembly inside the door and work it out of the door cavity through the large access hole to the left or right side of the door, depending on which door you are working on. Then maneuver the new regulator back into the door thorugh that same access hole and open it up inside the door cavity. Position the bolts that hold it in their proper holes on the door, put the nuts back on loosely till you get everything lined up properly, then tighten them all down. Connect the plug to the motor and run the regulator down all the way then slide the window back down and bolt it back in place on the regulator. Don't forget to reinstall the moisture barrier, use duct tape to hold it back in place if necessary. Then put the door panel back on. It really is an easy job. It is best to use new parts though, whether from the dealer or the Dorman parts.

 

Unfortunately, it's not a cable type regulator. It's the scissor type with a motor attached. I initially bought the cable type only to find out it wasn't the right type and had to return it.