Seems expensive to me. I don't see the point, personally. But, its your money.

I mean really - cross-drilled and slotted rotors on a V6 pickup truck manufactured 10 years ago???? Might as well get some Z rated max-performance summer tires while you are at it. If you had a G35 or a 350Z or a Camaro or a 'Stang, then MAYBE I would see the point. And even then, only MAYBE.

Fix whatever your underlying problem is with the braking. Then think about buying new parts. JMHO.

 

And why don't you just explain how to fix a warped rotor. $77 for a slotted/cross drilled rotor is a great price. If I never have to change a rotor again its an even better price.

 

Wish I knew. I do not ride the brakes at all.

 

I don't see a single post in here where anyone, myself included, suggested that you fix a warped rotor...

Why don't you just explain where you see that for me?

 

What part of warped rotor was unclear in my initial post. Your above statement suggests...................................

 

It is my humble opinion that if you are going through rotors in 12,000 miles, you have a problem, regardless of what kind of rotors they may be. The problem is not warped rotors. It is whatever is causing them to become "warped." That problem is still going to exist even if you spend $500 on rotors.

When you go from "my rotors are only lasting 12,000 miles" to "I am going to buy cross-drilled rotors" I think you have skipped a step.

For example, have you checked all of the slides on the calipers? Have you checked the proportioning valve for the brakes? How are your ball joints? What about your front shocks? Worn suspension parts will affect your braking. It will affect, for example, how hard you have to mash on the pedal to get the truck to stop. Which leads into my next point...

Certain people who know much more than I do seem to think it is impossible to actually warp rotors. In fact, warped rotors are considered to be a myth:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

I think the problem is a combination of some underlying suspension issue and your brake pads.

 

I guess I'd go with the lifetime warranted rotors and get free replacements when or if they warped again. They didn't have them in stock when I went for rotors so I got the 2 year warranty. As I said I got 42,000 miles out of the originals. You might check to make sure that the pins and slides are in good shape. If you're only getting 12,000 miles before they warp then there is a problem somewhere causing excessive heat.

 

Well,
Except for inspections, no ones ever touched them, the brakes are installed by the factory. If there is a design flaw...........................................Ame rican car companies have been using sub standard practices for years. Chinese steel, maybe? Heat causes warping, Dakotas are known for a heavy front end braking bias. I have to deal with what I have to work with.
Life time warranties, whats that? Stock rotors are $40, $30 more for cross drilled/slotted??????????????????? That will hopefully disipate the heat better is not bad. Cost me that much and more if I had the stealership put on stock rotors.
The idea that warped rotors are a myth......................................thats why there are so many on the market.
I will be taking a close look at the rear brakes to see if they are doing there share of the work and will be doing the proper adjustments to guarantee that they do. As well as examining the front pads for particular wear patterns.

 

Callipers dragging???

 

Check the caliper bracket slides for wear. The pads over time have a tendency to wear grooves in them. If they are not too bad just dress them a bit with a grinder. If they are say 1/8" deep or more I'd be replacing the caliper bracket. Also don't forget to put some caliper grease on them.