I have a 2000 4.7L 2wd dakota with around 86K miles on it which has been having front brake issues on and off for a while. Most recently the driver's side will brake more aggressivly and sometimes hang causing overheating and smoke.

Key details:

• rotors and pads have less than 5,000 miles on them
• new brake hoses for both front wheels and the rear as well

I finally gave up and took the car to the shop and so far they have confirmed that none of my "fixes" caused any issues and that they are just as confused as I am. They were able to free up the driver's side brake by straightening the guide pins so it is no longer dragging but when it is engaged it still pulls to left.

Questions:

• Will a failing proportioning valve give this type of issue?
• Since there is only one line coming out of the master cylinder which is then split after the proportioning valve should the master cylinder be considered as a possible cause (every test thus far to the master cylinder has shown it to be good)?
• Did I change the coefficient of friction on the drivers side pads and caliper from all the overheating causing it to be grabby now?

Any other ideas?

Thanks

 

It sounds like your caliper is sticking. Id start there. usually if your master cylinder is out, if will feel as if you have air in the lines and brakes wont work worth a dang. id bet its the caliper...

 

I forgot to mention that I have replaced both calipers. The issue originally started on the passenger side so I replaced that caliper and brake hose first (I should have done them both but I bought an exact OEM replacement). This solved the issue for a while but then it "moved" to the left side, so that caliper was replaced this week but the problem still exists. The passenger side wheel is a little tight but not too bad and the driver's side now spins freely but when brakes are applied it pulls to the left.

Sorry for missing these details in my original post.

 

Try this. pull the brake lines off of the caliper, have a friend VERY SLOWLY and apply the brake, if fluid shoots out, your capiler is bad, if not, you have a clog. make sure that the brake res. cap is off or your can contaminate your entire brake system. if fluid does not come out, then carefully trace the lines back until you get fluid flowing, then you will find your clog... good luck

 

The truck is currently at the shop but what I know from this week's work is that they did bleed both sides again just to be sure and found no issues. I have also bled the brakes via the "friend pumping" method and had nice smooth fluid flow from both sides. There were no issues with a surging burst of fluid or lack of fluid and I assume that this bleeding work would simulate your recommendation.

The guys at the shop also drove the truck to repeat the problem then immediately pulled over the crack the bleeder to see if there was any trapped air or built up pressure and nothing unusual was found.

Please keep the suggestions coming!

Thanks

 

If the lines are bleeding correctly then it has to be the calipers bro, no other way to say this to you. the fact that they have pressure to bleed means that the pro valve is working correctly. Make sure the pins are liberally greased with high temp silicone. Is one pad on the inside wearing faster then the outside?

 

I don't think that there is any difference in wear between the pads, they are too new to tell. Either way I have already replaced both calipers; maybe my issue is in the suspension / steering?

 

the calipers are warrantied correct? if so just get a new set to be sure

 

not likely. I work at Midas specializing in brakes, exhaust and suspension... suspension or steering will not cause any of those symptoms, unless something is bent rubbing the tire, which you'd know. its in the calipers bro...its the only thing that fits. here are some ideas to help you out..

loose/worn wheel bearing (you'd hear this and feel it, being you said nothing about a noise ignore this one) if for $#!^s and giggles you wanna check the bearing, make sure its torqued to 125 ft lbs.
seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston (drum)
caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted slide surfaces
loose caliper mounting


accorded to a professional mechanics software, those are the ONLY thing that can cause what is called brake drag

 

Okay lets brake (pun intended) this down.

-86,000 miles and the right side was pulling when brakes are applied.
-Changed right side caliper, hose and both rotors, and pads
-After replacement, left side started pulling to the left when brakes are applied and at times smokes.
-Replaced left caliper but notice that right caliper is a little tight. Drove it and still noticed that it pulls to left when braked.
-Mechanic bled the brakes.
-You bled the brakes.
-Problem still persists.

Here is my take. BOTH calipers were failing at 86,000 miles. The passenger side let go first and you fixed that first and then you noticed the driver side pulling hard when braked. You then replaced the driver's caliper but still noticed the problem. Took it to the mechanic, checked the brake system and didn't find anything wrong. You don't say if you or the mechanic replaced the driver's caliper but if you did it I'd remove it, take it back and get another one. If the mechanic did it, he should have enough experience to know that its a bad caliper. I'm hoping he isn't the type that doesn't want to replace a faulty part because it'll eat into his bottom line (labor cost). I'd insist that he replace the part again.

Remember N.E.W. parts doesn't mean GOOD WORKING parts. N.E.W. parts mean Never Ever Working. Just because its new doesn't mean that its good. The mechanic could have put on a bad, new caliper. I too think that it is in the caliper.

Is the mechanic using genuine Dodge parts or is he using new, off-shore (made in China or Mexico) new parts or rebuilt parts? I'm going to guess that he is using new off-shore Chinese parts that may have quality control issues. Yes, its possible to have a bad genuine Dodge parts but not at the rate as the no-name, off-shore new Chinese/Mexican parts.

I'm pretty certain its the caliper too. Suspension/Steering usually won't cause a truck/car to pull the left or right. It may cause its stopping distance to a little longer due to worn out shocks (in our case) or struts but it won't cause it to pull as you are describing.