More problems with the I-4...(Oil pan/starter)
So a headgasket blew about a month ago, so we pulled the head and changed the gaskets through the top end. It ran alright for about a month, but then it started overheating. The weird thing was that the heater never got hot, even when the gauge read that the engine was scorching. So we parked it. It was also running really poorly and burning oil, so we suspected the headgasket to be blown again. We pulled the head again, but this time the headgasket was fine. Pushed the pistons around, and they could wiggle in the cylinders. The compression was 120, 90, 90, 80, so blown headgasket didn't really make sense. Just some hopeful thinking.
I tried to pull the oil pan today, but there is one last bolt directly above the starter that I can not remove unless I get the starter off. Problem is, I can't get it off. I nearly rounded both the bolts trying to get them off with the right size wrench (3/8). It just does not want to come off. My question: Has anyone had any success getting the oil pan off without pulling the starter? I don't want to deal with trying to use an impact wrench or that air stuff. Just too clumsy, and I think that me with a breaker bar is stronger than my old impact stuff anyhow.
I was using an 11 mm with a 3/8" swivel to try to get to that last bolt, and I could kinda get on it, just not enough to put much force on it. So I am going to locate a 1/4" swivel tomorrow and see if that allows me a little more wiggle room to get a better seat on the bolt.
EDIT: Reason for dropping the oil pan is to replace the piston rings. I thought that I had posted that, but after re-reading my post I was left thinking "why did I post all that and leave off with 'and now I'm dropping the oil pan.'" So if it wasn't clear, now you know.
I tried to pull the oil pan today, but there is one last bolt directly above the starter that I can not remove unless I get the starter off. Problem is, I can't get it off. I nearly rounded both the bolts trying to get them off with the right size wrench (3/8). It just does not want to come off. My question: Has anyone had any success getting the oil pan off without pulling the starter? I don't want to deal with trying to use an impact wrench or that air stuff. Just too clumsy, and I think that me with a breaker bar is stronger than my old impact stuff anyhow.
I was using an 11 mm with a 3/8" swivel to try to get to that last bolt, and I could kinda get on it, just not enough to put much force on it. So I am going to locate a 1/4" swivel tomorrow and see if that allows me a little more wiggle room to get a better seat on the bolt.
EDIT: Reason for dropping the oil pan is to replace the piston rings. I thought that I had posted that, but after re-reading my post I was left thinking "why did I post all that and leave off with 'and now I'm dropping the oil pan.'" So if it wasn't clear, now you know.
Last edited by cntchds; Jun 2, 2010 at 04:38 AM.
Replaced the head when we changed the head gasket last time. Had it checked, and the deck was flat, so we bolted it on. Like I said, the head gasket was fine when we pulled it, and it did not leak oil or coolant anywhere, so I think we are fine in that regard.
The coolant thing is super bizarre, because the heater would not get hot. I tested the thermostat in boiling water, and it was stuck closed (why all t-stats aren't "fail open" is completely beyond me). Pulled the water pump and it looked good as well. Spun freely, and had no play in the bearing. I'm just confused, because the heater bypasses the thermostat, so I would assume that it would heat regardless of the thermostat being stuck. I'm hoping that a new thermostat will solve that issue, but who knows, maybe a coolant passage is blocked, or the system wasn't properly burped.
The cylinder walls did not have any scarring, but had very little cross hatching left. I think we will re-hatch them before the pistons go back in.
I'm really in shock of all the things that have happened to this truck in a short 130,000 miles. At around 70,000 a freeze plug rusted through (used only coolant and distilled water). The electrical gremlins (a ground that became disconnected), and sensor failures (especially the camshaft positioning sensor that has gone out 3 times). I mean, I love the truck, and when it runs it runs great, but there have been quite a few more incidents of bad luck in this than in my 94 Mustang GT with 230,000 miles.
The coolant thing is super bizarre, because the heater would not get hot. I tested the thermostat in boiling water, and it was stuck closed (why all t-stats aren't "fail open" is completely beyond me). Pulled the water pump and it looked good as well. Spun freely, and had no play in the bearing. I'm just confused, because the heater bypasses the thermostat, so I would assume that it would heat regardless of the thermostat being stuck. I'm hoping that a new thermostat will solve that issue, but who knows, maybe a coolant passage is blocked, or the system wasn't properly burped.
The cylinder walls did not have any scarring, but had very little cross hatching left. I think we will re-hatch them before the pistons go back in.
I'm really in shock of all the things that have happened to this truck in a short 130,000 miles. At around 70,000 a freeze plug rusted through (used only coolant and distilled water). The electrical gremlins (a ground that became disconnected), and sensor failures (especially the camshaft positioning sensor that has gone out 3 times). I mean, I love the truck, and when it runs it runs great, but there have been quite a few more incidents of bad luck in this than in my 94 Mustang GT with 230,000 miles.
Would it be cheaper/easier to just swap the engine out? I know around me, all junk yards pull the engines, disassemble them, and put in new gasket sets, that is the only way they will sell an engine, and it comes with a 30 day warranty. I can pick up a used 3.9, which is what is in my truck, for around $300-$400. I know every area is different, but instead of going through the headache of rebuilding it, maybe a replacement would be a better idea? Just my .02
I would say that in general, yes, but since we already pulled the head to check the gasket all we really have to do is drop the oil pan to get to the pistons. From that point just re-ring the pistons, and put it all back together. I really don't like the idea of a mystery engine anyway, since it could have the same problem as the one I have or worse. You never know at the junkyard, but I guess that's what the warranty is for.


