I did forget to mention that you'll need to measure how much resistance there is to turn your flange. Do this once you take off the drive shaft. It's important to tighten the pinion nut (when you're putting it back on) only as far as it is needed to accomplish this level of resistance. I do believe it is also supposed to be backed off something like 5 inch lbs after you find the level of tightness (to allow for the new seal to expand). If you overtighten, you'll kill your crush sleeve (which I'm pretty sure is on the other side of the "inner bearing").

You're best bet is to pick up the Haynes manual for your dad's truck and it'll pay for itself the first time you do a DIY job. It'll walk you through this process. If you still don't feel comfortable, take it to a shop.

 

The whole idea of measuring the rotational torque of the pinion yoke should only be done with the tires off and axle shafts removed. It should be mere inch*pounds. To try to turn it with the axle shafts in, tires on, brakes dragging, etc, measuring the rotational torque won't give you any useful information.

If the rear axle has never been messed with before, tighten the nut to 210 ft*lbs and leave it. The factory has high precision computers that do this from the factory. It's important to get that right because the pinion nut sets the bearing preload... too much and you'll burn up the bearings, too little and you'll tear up the bearings.

And DO NOT back the nut off when you are done!!!!!!!! Backing the nut off negates the whole concept of the crush sleeve.

 

Thanks for clarifying.

 

My rear diff is leaking, and I need to get Pearl to the shop before long to get that sorted.

It'll cost me about ~$75 - $100 per my mechanic, and that incl. the fluid etc.

If I have a place to do the work myself, I would given how simple it sounds.
Unfortunately, I don't have a shop to work in, or the tools.

Need a smaller house with a bigger yard and shop.

 

If you're neat and discrete about it, you can just about do it anywhere. I live in a nice apartment complex and as long as I make an effort to not have anything distasteful (ie tools and greasy rags thrown all over the place) laying out, they don't mind.

By the way, I like "Pearl" for the name of your truck

 

Thanks. and yea... I suppose if I kept things neat it might be okay.

 

Thanks for all the help and info...if only I had better tools and a little more knowledge. lol. Well, just took it to the mechanic, just over 100 bucks, not bad.

 

it is near impossible to take off by hand, with that said you will need impact gun (a decent one) and the large socket to fit it. at that point your over $100 unless you got the tools. but hey, all us DIYers have spent $1000's in tools just to have the piece of mind that some shop didnt mess up the job or put cheap junky parts in.

 

I used a huge @$$ breaker bar (slid a pipe over the handle for more leverage) and bolted a piece of angle iron to two of the holes on the flange for leverage. This worked for me to get it off.