steering gear box myth?
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Professional
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 207
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From: Eastern Bluegrass
UPDATE:
Well, made some adjustments to the adjustment screw on the gearbox. tightened the screw 1.25 turns total. got rid of most of the play in steering.
the first adjustment was 1/2 turn. then took for test drive about 3 mile. then made 1/4 turn. drive again for another 1/2 mile. was going to make another adjustment but everything was just too hot. waited about 4 hrs the made the final 1/2 turn. test drive. and is close enough for government work for now.
will wait till i replace the idler arm and then adjust more if needed.
seems like once you adjust and take up all the slack. then drive it. after the power steering pump pumps some fluid around. then you can adjust again and repeat the process. until all the slack is gone or you are happy with it.
Also gave it a tune-up. the old plugs were gaped between .045 and .055, but the tips did not have any oil deposits or anything. so the rings and valve guide seals ect. should be OK.
button and cap were nasty as well. contacts on inside of the cap had nasty whitish buildup.
the button had carbon on the tip and pits. the top where it meets the cap was burnt black and lost a lot of its springiness.
the plug wires were mismatched. I mean 5 of the 6 were from 1 set and the 6th from another it was red while all the others were black.
now just have to replace the broken gas tank strap (back). already have it. just need another day or two. have a ratchet strap holding it now. should be OK until i get around to changing it.
like i said in the first post. new to me.
KillerKilgore
Well, made some adjustments to the adjustment screw on the gearbox. tightened the screw 1.25 turns total. got rid of most of the play in steering.
the first adjustment was 1/2 turn. then took for test drive about 3 mile. then made 1/4 turn. drive again for another 1/2 mile. was going to make another adjustment but everything was just too hot. waited about 4 hrs the made the final 1/2 turn. test drive. and is close enough for government work for now.
will wait till i replace the idler arm and then adjust more if needed.
seems like once you adjust and take up all the slack. then drive it. after the power steering pump pumps some fluid around. then you can adjust again and repeat the process. until all the slack is gone or you are happy with it.
Also gave it a tune-up. the old plugs were gaped between .045 and .055, but the tips did not have any oil deposits or anything. so the rings and valve guide seals ect. should be OK.
button and cap were nasty as well. contacts on inside of the cap had nasty whitish buildup.
the button had carbon on the tip and pits. the top where it meets the cap was burnt black and lost a lot of its springiness.
the plug wires were mismatched. I mean 5 of the 6 were from 1 set and the 6th from another it was red while all the others were black.
now just have to replace the broken gas tank strap (back). already have it. just need another day or two. have a ratchet strap holding it now. should be OK until i get around to changing it.
like i said in the first post. new to me.
KillerKilgore
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
From: Eastern Bluegrass
UPDATE 2:
changed idler arm, helped a little more. 7/25/10
1/4 adjustment on the gearbox will have to test drive it. 7/26/10
gas tank strap replacement will have to be by a shop.
changed idler arm, helped a little more. 7/25/10
1/4 adjustment on the gearbox will have to test drive it. 7/26/10
gas tank strap replacement will have to be by a shop.
Rookie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 85
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From: chicago
i did all my ball joints, hubs and tierods, and everything and it was still loose (i didnt waste my money everything had to be done anyway) but for that super sloppy steering it is the Ujoints on intermediate steering shaft. no auto part stores sell it as far as i know, dealer it is $400, but online you can get it much cheaper