Squeaky squeaky suspension!
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Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 7
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From: Portland OR
Squeaky squeaky suspension!
Hey everybody! I haven't been on here in a while... not since my heater core blew up and I spent forever tackling it...
Anyways, my truck is in need of some attention again, and this time in the form of suspension. I get some serious squeaky when I move the suspension around, and it just doesn't feel stable. Plus I got some awkward kinda "pops" when I turn. I ride my motorcycle a lot so it hasn't bugged me, but I want my truck to be bullet proof again!
Anyways, I know the ball joints are renowned for going out unless oiled. Considering I've had the truck three years and didn't oil it, I'd say they are more than likely toast. I still don't know exactly what the ball joints are, haha. Could I possibly convince some one to put a picture of what they are exactly and what I should look for up, along with any other general suspension advice?
Also, my truck so you all know: 1999 Dodge Dakota 4x2 (RWD) with the 3.9 V6 magnum in it.
Anyways, my truck is in need of some attention again, and this time in the form of suspension. I get some serious squeaky when I move the suspension around, and it just doesn't feel stable. Plus I got some awkward kinda "pops" when I turn. I ride my motorcycle a lot so it hasn't bugged me, but I want my truck to be bullet proof again!
Anyways, I know the ball joints are renowned for going out unless oiled. Considering I've had the truck three years and didn't oil it, I'd say they are more than likely toast. I still don't know exactly what the ball joints are, haha. Could I possibly convince some one to put a picture of what they are exactly and what I should look for up, along with any other general suspension advice?
Also, my truck so you all know: 1999 Dodge Dakota 4x2 (RWD) with the 3.9 V6 magnum in it.
Record Breaker
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 20
From: Clermont, Florida
Sounds like ball joints, can also be the sway bar end links are bad as well. The factory ball joints on Dakota's are not greaseable. On the 2 wheel drive Dakota the upper an dlower ball joints are riveted in place on the control arms. You have to drill them out and you can buy replacements that you can bolt back in. TRW or Moog are the better quality parts to get and they will have grease fittings. I put TRW lowers and Duralast uppers on mine and I grease them at every oil change. I used the Autozone parts on the uppers because they don't take nearly as much abuse as the lowers. TRW makes the Duralast ball joints for Autozone anyway and they cost a bout half what of the price of TRW branded upper ball joints. Both uppers and lowers are doing fine, the steering and ride quality are great.
I put a post here with pictures when I did my lower ball joints a few months ago. I think one of the mods moved it to the FAQ section here on the 2nd Gen page. Uppers are essentially the same, only they have 3 rivets instead of 4 and they are a bit smaller. I would suggest doing uppers and lowers at the same time if the ball joints on the truck are all original. It is not easy but is not super difficult either. You need a good drill and some cobalt drill bits.
You can do a visual inspection on the stabilizer bar links. The boots get torn and you lose the grease, and then there is a bad bump/clunk noise when going over bumps at slow speeds, like speed breakers in a parking lot. TRW or Napa chassis parts are best and will cost about $35.00 each. It is best to replace the sway bar end links when you do the lower ball joints because you need to remove them anyway to remove the steering knuckle to get at the lower ball joint.
Squeaky suspension can also be due to worn out shocks. Check them for leakage and do the bounce test on the corners of the truck. Monroe Reflex are a great shock for the 2 wheel drive Dakota, probably cost between $200 and $250 for a set of 4 at Napa, you can get them for less if you find them on Amazon or other online parts stores. I have Reflex on my truck and they are still working great even with 35,000 miles on them so far.
Jimmy
I put a post here with pictures when I did my lower ball joints a few months ago. I think one of the mods moved it to the FAQ section here on the 2nd Gen page. Uppers are essentially the same, only they have 3 rivets instead of 4 and they are a bit smaller. I would suggest doing uppers and lowers at the same time if the ball joints on the truck are all original. It is not easy but is not super difficult either. You need a good drill and some cobalt drill bits.
You can do a visual inspection on the stabilizer bar links. The boots get torn and you lose the grease, and then there is a bad bump/clunk noise when going over bumps at slow speeds, like speed breakers in a parking lot. TRW or Napa chassis parts are best and will cost about $35.00 each. It is best to replace the sway bar end links when you do the lower ball joints because you need to remove them anyway to remove the steering knuckle to get at the lower ball joint.
Squeaky suspension can also be due to worn out shocks. Check them for leakage and do the bounce test on the corners of the truck. Monroe Reflex are a great shock for the 2 wheel drive Dakota, probably cost between $200 and $250 for a set of 4 at Napa, you can get them for less if you find them on Amazon or other online parts stores. I have Reflex on my truck and they are still working great even with 35,000 miles on them so far.
Jimmy
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: chicago
ball joints are what holds the steering knuckles to the upper and lower control arms. idk about your 2wd but in my 4x4 the bottom one pressed out and the top ones had just 3 easy bolts. driving with bad ball joints is extremely dangerous, ever seen a car on the side of the road stranded with both wheels pointed inward? yeah bad shocks can also make he suspension squeeky. as well as swaybar bushings, take them apart and grease the inside