I found this thread via search: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...to-w-pics.html

To do the coil spacers properly, how hard is it to break the ball joints, versus using a spring compressor? I was told the rental compressors dont fit the springs at all.

I'm a bit of a novice, and not sure about opening the ball joints. It seems like all it is, is just popping the nut off one joint or the other, but are there any things to be wary of?

I'm doing a 1" coil spacer and 2" shackle lift. I know the shackles are a quicky (and I'll probably do first), but I'm not yet sure how to do the coil spacers.

 

Braking the joints are not that bad usually. Using a pickle fork or a joint separator tool will help. You should be able to rent it from most auto parts stores.

I almost guarantee you will not be able to get spacers in with out removing the coil. Even then you may need the compressors to get the coil back in.

 

what is the risk of damage, ect? I don't want to cause them to wear any faster if I can. I'm running the oversided dowl pins on my drive side brake caliper, so i know the driver side spindle will have to be replaced eventually. I'd rather replace the joints at that time, if possible. We have a pickle fork, just a matter of where. Is it easier to break the upper or lower joint?

What do you mean removing the coil? Can't you just drop the lower control arm, put the spacer on top of the spring, swing the control arm back up, and back onto the spindle?

 

So, i poked my head around this afternoon (after a little off-pavement excursion, of course, thus why there is grass in one picture).

Looks to me, like I'm going to need alot more than a couple jackstands to do the fronts? Seems the coils are way up there. I thought breaking the top joint would be easier, because it just lines up, as upposed to breaking the lower, which you actually have to pull up over the spindle. Or is there a trick, like to seat the upper control arm on it's droop-stop, and rachet-strap-compress the 2 control arms together until it goes back together? Would I unbolt the shock at top, bottom, or completely remove it?

 

I'm suspension retarded, but is that a leak (wet spot) on your steering boot cover? Just trying to help. Don't kill the (perhaps misinformed) messenger

 

I was actually wondering the same thing. I know my power steering is about gone. Fluid's been good on level (but burned), just pump has seen better days.

 

reading around different forums, It seems it's a split consensus- half use compressors, half just articulate until the spring falls out.

Considering I'm pretty much d@mn near riding the bumpstops, I don't think I'll have a choice but to break the ball joints. Seems the upper spring seat is so deep, I don't se it just falling out.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong-

1. remove sway bar (done ahead of time, for time's sake)

2. remove tire- 5 minutes

3. remove bump stop (just 1 bolt, right?)- 2 minutes

4. Remove shock completely- 10-20 minutes

5. jack up on lower control arm, to compress spring- 3 minutes

6. attach spring compressors to spring until tight, wrap 3" wide ratchet strap around both control arms until tight- 20-30 minutes

7. Lower jack, reposition to under spring cup- 1 minute

8. remove cotter pin from lower ball joint nut

9. slowly loosen lower ball joint nut, watching for slippage of compressors or strap- 10-15 minutes

10. use BFH, ratchet strap, and compressors to further compress spring so that ball joint stud comes loose- 10-15 minutes

11. push kuckle back away from ball joint

12. with jack under spring cup, slowly loosen ratchet strap, then compressors- 5 minutes

13. finally, the lower control arm should just droop down far enough to install spacers?

14. Remove droop-stops (1 bolt?)- 5 minutes

15. re-compress spring using jack, using compressors and ratchet strap as insurance, until as tight/compacted as will go- 15 minutes

16. Pull knuckle back, get lined back up with Ball Joint stud

17. Slowly loosen spring tension until ball joint stud goes back into knuckle- 5 minutes

18. replace ball joint castle nut and cotter pin- 3 minutes

19. move jack back to ball joint, jack up to loose compressors and ratchet strap- 2 minutes

20. remove compressors and ratchet strap- 5 minutes

21. re-install bump stop- 2 minutes

22. put tires back on- 5 minutes

23. cut 1" off of droop-stop, re-install (another day)

24. reinstall sway bar (another day)

I count 142 minutes, so roughly 3 hours per side. Does that sound about right, assuming nothing goes wrong?

 

 

So, if my inference is correct, there is no adjustment in the lower control arm mounts, right?

If I simply wire-tied the upper control arm and spindle up to the fender, Wouldn't it be easier to just partially compress the spring, pull the ball joint stud from the spindle, then remove the 2 bolts holding the lower control arm on? That way I don't have to take the time to full compress it, only just enough to relieve pressure? Then to re-install, put the 2 bolts in first, then compress the spring with the floor jack to get the ball joint back together?

I'm going to stop by A&A (local truck pick-a-part) and see if they have any V8 coil springs. Does anybody know how long the V8 coils would be, so I could measure them vs my V6 coils? I would assume 1" longer?

Would a V8 Durango front coil be even longer than a V8 dakota coil?