ok here it goes, its gonna be a long one, in the new interior style trucks the dome light doesn't come on with the cargo, when u flip it to cargo u have to past the dome light setting and it turns itself off, atleast it does this in my truck, and if u wanted to access the actual gauges on ur truck rantz its extremely simple, just as easy and switching out the lights in them cause u gotta take the assembly out anyways, basically removing the guage cluster goes as this:

disconnect battery, ur gonna unplug pass airbags
put emergency brake on
put truck in 1st NOT D, shifter gets in the way of dash bezzel when removing
remove panel under steering column i believe its just 4 torx bits that r 4mm
pull dash off, i recomend starting by the radio, it is just held on by clips that pull off and some phillips head screws, if i remember correctly it was two phillips above gauges
before just tearing it apart tho once u get the bottom corner off unplug yellow airbag connector
slowly work ur way towards the steering column unplugin stuff as u go, ac controls then headlight switch
remove bezel from around the steering column
then to remove cluster i think its just some phillips head screws then it pulls right out, it will automatically disconect itself
from there u will see that to access the actual gauges u just have to remove 4 more screws and the plastic pops off
then reasemble in opposite order

if u are looking to add more red, replace the dome lights with red leds, the dome light u just have to manuever out of the slot its in in the headliner, and the overhead console u just remove the screw at the front of the console itself then it will push foward and then u just pull down on it to actually take it off

if u haven't noticed by now ive removed my headliner and dash bezzel numerous times lol

Yeah removing the bezel is no problem. I currently have it barely on there because of my current work with putting in leds. I am going to completely pull it off so that I can drill tiny holes to slip the single led bulbs in their places behind the vents. What I am wondering about is if I can even disassemble the guages enough to scrape the blue tinting off of them? I am not as nervous about the ac controls, but the speedometer and stuff are sensitive.

I am starting with the bezel for now. Then I will expand and put a single led in the door speakers as well (maybe two if needed).

I am just thinking a dab of hot glue will be sufficient to hold the leds in place where they will be poking into the vents?

I actually want to also preserve the functionality of my map and dome lights, so I have white leds in their place and that has brightened things up quite a bit.

btw, since I will be attaching bulbs to the bezel, I will install quick disconnects so I can pull the bezel off no problem.

Okay so I have everything in there, but I am popping the fuse on my car lighter (what I'm using for power). It runs the single accent bulbs no problem, but as soon as I include the led tube kit as well, it pops the fuse. I even tried a 20amp fuse, but it still popped it. I would like to keep everything on the one switch I put in. I assumed that the 25amp switch would be plenty... Now I'm beginning to wonder. I need to look into the power consumption of these devices.

These are what I have in the floor boards:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

These are what I'm using for the accent bulbs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT

I am working on figuring out what the consumption of these lights are. I think I will just sap the power from my amp power cord. I have my 600max amp behind the back seat wired with 1,200 watt max power cords. If needbe I will even utilize a higher amperage switch. How will I know if the draw is too much for the 25 amp switch?

I am currently using 18 gauge wire for the power and ground. Is this big enough for running what I have?

So I had a short in a section of temporary wiring (using a quick splice) and melted a wire. Luckily it was right in front of me and I was looking right at it. No damage to anything else, but it has me convinced that I need to clean up all of the connections.

I just confirmed from the two sellers of these items that they barely draw any power. Therefore, it is definitely my connections. I used a combination of some solder and some crimping connections (mostly crimping quick disconnects).

Yes quick disconnects are more temp if you just crimp them when we wired our cj we just crimped everything real good thinking it would be good WRONG!! 2 months later ended up going back threw and soldering everything havent had a problem yet in 2 years.

I fixed the issue today. I improved all of my connections and it works flawlessly. It apparently had nothing to do with the draw of the bulbs and the led kit, but it was just the short in my wiring. Once I went over all of the connections that I knew were the issue and corrected them, it was all good

Apparently it would take 1,000 of these single bulbs to equal 3amps of draw and the led tube kits in either floorboard still only equal up to 0.2 of an amp. Therefore, the car lighter is more than good enough of a power source for these items. I'm going to head out there tonight and button everything back up.

I even took a couple of pictures during the daytime.

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In this picture you can still see all of the mess I have going on in my truck.

For some reason, my camera phone doesn't pick up the red light very well at night.

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Looks good man