Leaking Transmission
I took the truck - 2002 Dakota, 4.7, 2 wheel drive - to have the transmission fluid power flushed and the filter changed. Now I have a slow drip leak. Previous to the servicing, there was no leak. I took it in because the truck has 240,000 and I figured it was due.
In an attempt to stop the leak, I tightened the 14 or 15 bolts that hold the pan on. I don't have a torque wrench, but was careful not to over tighten. No luck. If anything the leak looks worse.
The questions: If the garage put a new pan gasket on, could it be the cause? Are there better qualities of gaskets?
If I call the garage, should they make good on the repair without charge? Should I just forget the garage and put another gasket in?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
In an attempt to stop the leak, I tightened the 14 or 15 bolts that hold the pan on. I don't have a torque wrench, but was careful not to over tighten. No luck. If anything the leak looks worse.
The questions: If the garage put a new pan gasket on, could it be the cause? Are there better qualities of gaskets?
If I call the garage, should they make good on the repair without charge? Should I just forget the garage and put another gasket in?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
I'm going to need a little help on this one.
Rationalizing that it was faster to just change the gasket myself, I got the new gasket and got it changed.
It was the 15 bolt variety. For my truck there were 3 possible variations of the transmission pan. Two had 14 bolts and one had 15. The gasket I took off was the correct one, and was new a few weeks ago. Oh well, since I bought a new gasket AND pulled the pan, the newer one went on.
I asked for the best quality gasket available. The result of the conversation was that the rubber type was all that was necessary. On the advice of the guy at the parts store, I also picked up a tube of silicone gasket sealant that is designed to work with oil applications. I cleaned the edge of the pan per the directions. I put the pan back on and tightened the bolts without going gorilla on them. I have a torque wrench but do not know what the proper setting is for these bolts.
And you guessed it. This morning I had a spot in the driveway about 5" across. Not a lot, but still a leak.
Is the installation of a gasket all that difficult? Should I have sacrificed an F-150 or rearranged my chicken bones to say "Jr."? This really should be simple, but I'm just not getting it. Any advice will be most appreciated. And if you happen to know how many foot pounds are indicated for the pan bolts, that would be great!
I'd also like to know if there's a "super" gasket that's better than the rubber I'm using? Is there a pan with a oil drain bolt that would make this job a whole lot easier?
-edit- Found a pan here: www.yourcovers.com/transpan_10304.php Don't know if I want to spend that much though.
Thanks,
Tom
Rationalizing that it was faster to just change the gasket myself, I got the new gasket and got it changed.
It was the 15 bolt variety. For my truck there were 3 possible variations of the transmission pan. Two had 14 bolts and one had 15. The gasket I took off was the correct one, and was new a few weeks ago. Oh well, since I bought a new gasket AND pulled the pan, the newer one went on.
I asked for the best quality gasket available. The result of the conversation was that the rubber type was all that was necessary. On the advice of the guy at the parts store, I also picked up a tube of silicone gasket sealant that is designed to work with oil applications. I cleaned the edge of the pan per the directions. I put the pan back on and tightened the bolts without going gorilla on them. I have a torque wrench but do not know what the proper setting is for these bolts.
And you guessed it. This morning I had a spot in the driveway about 5" across. Not a lot, but still a leak.
Is the installation of a gasket all that difficult? Should I have sacrificed an F-150 or rearranged my chicken bones to say "Jr."? This really should be simple, but I'm just not getting it. Any advice will be most appreciated. And if you happen to know how many foot pounds are indicated for the pan bolts, that would be great!
I'd also like to know if there's a "super" gasket that's better than the rubber I'm using? Is there a pan with a oil drain bolt that would make this job a whole lot easier?
-edit- Found a pan here: www.yourcovers.com/transpan_10304.php Don't know if I want to spend that much though.
Thanks,
Tom
Last edited by tomgraz; May 31, 2011 at 12:33 PM.
the pan might be warped. the shop might have used a screwdriver to pry the old pan off and bent it. this is what happened to my oil pan, had a bad oil leak as a result. looks like you gotta pull the pan again.
Sorry about the bad luck your having. I just replaced filters, fluid, and the gasket in mine. I have a 4X4 with the 45rfe trans and the Haynes manual said to torque to 156 in lbs. But since you're a 2X4 I have no idea what your specific torque will be. My gasket (it was only RTV) was going bad with a very slow leak. The pan was getting a little "wet" all around the edge. I had no trouble getting my pan off, I just banged on it with my hand and it came loose. I really hope the shop didn't do something really stupid and us a screw driver to get it off. It would seem to be common sense not get a pan off that way.
A neighbor that is an auto mechanic offered some advice for the gasket problem. He suggested RTV, or better if I can find a product called The Right Stuff (www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm).
His method:
Thanks,
Tom
His method:
- Don't use the rubber gasket at all.
- Drain the transmission fluid from the pan and let it all drip out.
- Clean the edges of the pan and transmission base with brake cleaner.
- Apply the goop liberally, and all around the bolt holes.
- Press pan back in place.
- Tighten bolts, but be careful not to over tighten.
- Let dry over night before putting the transmission fluid back in.
Thanks,
Tom
Last edited by tomgraz; Jun 1, 2011 at 11:17 AM.
the best sealant made in many techs opinions is made by toyota. i wish i could remember the part number but i would buy that stuff for sealing anything on any motor. its about $20 a tube though. i have never had a problem with permatex though. like the above post said, make sure that the lip of the pan is not bent. it is possible that the pan was over torqued to begin with, so make sure that the sealing surface is perfectly flat. meaning where the bolt go though the pan should not look like it was squeezed up to the trans. if so you can take a flat piece of metal and a hammer and bend the pan back straight. also if there is any big of trans fluid on the sealing surface the silicone will not seal. i typicaly like to use rubber gaskets in this occasions since it doesnt matter if there is a little fluic on the surface. it seals just like an oil filter seals when you put oil around the o ring.
also, make sure that the fluid is not seeping down the trans from another source and just collecting near the pan sealing surface.
also, make sure that the fluid is not seeping down the trans from another source and just collecting near the pan sealing surface.
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Well, I pulled the pan again. This time I went with Permatex Right Stuff. I followed the directions as well as I could. And I thought that was pretty good. I actually got fired by my Dad for spending too much time cleaning the pan. He was immediately chased out of the garage.
The pan is still dripping in the driveway.
I'm so pi$$ed off I could sell my truck today. I'll give it another shot since I now have a $20.00 can of "super gasket". I used a 1/8" bead as prescribed. Next, I'll goop the whole edge. BTW, the new aerosol applicator can doesn't work all that well. A squeeze tube would have been just fine.
The pan is still dripping in the driveway.
I'm so pi$$ed off I could sell my truck today. I'll give it another shot since I now have a $20.00 can of "super gasket". I used a 1/8" bead as prescribed. Next, I'll goop the whole edge. BTW, the new aerosol applicator can doesn't work all that well. A squeeze tube would have been just fine.
I don't see any warpage or dents that could have been caused by a screw driver used to pry the pan off. I took the pan off again and carried it to a guy that works on transmissions. He showed me where the metal around the bolt holes was "crowned" a little, probably from over tightening the bolts. Using a ballpine hammer he flattened the crowns and that appears to be the trick.
I used the Permatex again. When I pulled the pan last time, I could see where there were thin spots that didn't look like it got enough goop. I'm still getting a drip from what looks like the dipstick tube. I'm going to start another thread for that.
I used the Permatex again. When I pulled the pan last time, I could see where there were thin spots that didn't look like it got enough goop. I'm still getting a drip from what looks like the dipstick tube. I'm going to start another thread for that.
Last edited by tomgraz; Jun 10, 2011 at 11:46 AM.


