I found a dyno
#41
07-27-2005, 12:59 PM
RE: I found a dyno
ORIGINAL: TexasNative
D@mn thats awful, so basically im stuck then unless i drop all of my per diem(if I go) into it huh. Oh well then I think on that note I will put in the headers, maybe the rockers and the throttle body(50mm) and be done with it. It sure would have been nice to blow Snowman away in something other than another 4 door car lol. (SRT-10 would come in handy lol) Although KRC performance makes a supercharger for my application which I think adds about 120 RWHP.
D@mn thats awful, so basically im stuck then unless i drop all of my per diem(if I go) into it huh. Oh well then I think on that note I will put in the headers, maybe the rockers and the throttle body(50mm) and be done with it. It sure would have been nice to blow Snowman away in something other than another 4 door car lol. (SRT-10 would come in handy lol) Although KRC performance makes a supercharger for my application which I think adds about 120 RWHP.
Understood about the supercharger and resulting horsepower, but please - FOCUS ON THE WHOLE PACKAGE. Before you have 400HP, you need to have a suspension that can handle the speed and help you put the power to the ground. You need wheels and good rubber to be able to hook-up rahter than smoke-up. You need brakes to bring that thing down from speed. my Cummins has huge brakes but it's an experience bringing her down from 80 MPH in a short distance. I won't talk about brake fade - sheesh.
You see what I mean? If you have a plan to supercharge down the road, don't waste your money on mods that will be useless if you go FI. A lot of things you do will go by the wayside if you decide to put a supercharger or turbo kit under the hood. Remember also - dropping a supercharger or turbo in your truck is just the beginning - you'll need ECU work and tuning to go with it - which is much more money...
:-)
Good morning by the way.
#42
07-27-2005, 09:50 PM
RE: I found a dyno
ORIGINAL: GeeWillikers
Something unmentioned up until this point. Snowman81 ran his Acura TL-S on the same dyno, on the same night, with the same dyno operator. Based on the numbers he pulled, either the dyno was flakey, or the operator left his clue at home that night before he came to work.
His car makes 260HP stock, and he's running a AEM CAI, high flow headers/cats, and COMPTECH exhaust. All are very effective mods on the TL - not 'ricer' mods. His actual HP at the crank is easily 280+. On this dyno he pulled 200 at the wheels. Given he's a front driver, loss through the drivetrain is far less than a RWD. It's normal for cars modded like his to pull between 230 - 250 at the wheel - dyno and car condition dependent of course.
In short, I wouldn't trust much that came off the dyno that night, dyno slip or not.
Snowman81 can verify my claims. He's just too polite to post it up himself. I, fortunately, do not have that problem..
Something unmentioned up until this point. Snowman81 ran his Acura TL-S on the same dyno, on the same night, with the same dyno operator. Based on the numbers he pulled, either the dyno was flakey, or the operator left his clue at home that night before he came to work.
His car makes 260HP stock, and he's running a AEM CAI, high flow headers/cats, and COMPTECH exhaust. All are very effective mods on the TL - not 'ricer' mods. His actual HP at the crank is easily 280+. On this dyno he pulled 200 at the wheels. Given he's a front driver, loss through the drivetrain is far less than a RWD. It's normal for cars modded like his to pull between 230 - 250 at the wheel - dyno and car condition dependent of course.
In short, I wouldn't trust much that came off the dyno that night, dyno slip or not.
Snowman81 can verify my claims. He's just too polite to post it up himself. I, fortunately, do not have that problem..
#43
07-27-2005, 10:12 PM
RE: I found a dyno
ORIGINAL: GeeWillikers
Rather than worry about the difficulty of this single install, I recommend you set a goal and then come up with a REAL plan on how to get there. What will this mod do for you? Do you even have an idea?
Peak HP and TQ mean nothing unless you're making them at the right point in the powerband FOR YOU. Do you know what the modification of your rockers will do and why? If no, that would be the question I would ask.
The question you need to ask yourself is "what do I want my truck to do?" Unless you spend a lot of time driving at the RPMs your truck requires to generate its peak HP & TQ (usually up there) your power under the curve is where you need to focus. I'll take a reasonable flat power and torque curve over peak numbers that do little more than give me bragging rights. A Honda S2000 makes great numbers as long as you keep the RPMs pegged. Let it drop out of the range of its VTEC, however, and performance is mediocre. Mazda's RX8 is in the same "keep it boiling" situation. Power below the curve is dismal.
If you want a good example of a vehicle that makes good power under the curve, look at BMW. Relatively low HP/TQ numbers when compared to the competition, but performance numbers (0-60, 0-100 and 1/4 mile) are usually comparable.
Rather than worry about the difficulty of this single install, I recommend you set a goal and then come up with a REAL plan on how to get there. What will this mod do for you? Do you even have an idea?
Peak HP and TQ mean nothing unless you're making them at the right point in the powerband FOR YOU. Do you know what the modification of your rockers will do and why? If no, that would be the question I would ask.
The question you need to ask yourself is "what do I want my truck to do?" Unless you spend a lot of time driving at the RPMs your truck requires to generate its peak HP & TQ (usually up there) your power under the curve is where you need to focus. I'll take a reasonable flat power and torque curve over peak numbers that do little more than give me bragging rights. A Honda S2000 makes great numbers as long as you keep the RPMs pegged. Let it drop out of the range of its VTEC, however, and performance is mediocre. Mazda's RX8 is in the same "keep it boiling" situation. Power below the curve is dismal.
If you want a good example of a vehicle that makes good power under the curve, look at BMW. Relatively low HP/TQ numbers when compared to the competition, but performance numbers (0-60, 0-100 and 1/4 mile) are usually comparable.
BTW...I have run with a SRT-4 and they are not as fast as I thought they were. I am not sure the mods on it at the time but he didn't pull away like I expected him to. I stayed within a car length of him from 40-120 until he started swerving a little to much for my liking. Now there were definitely some modded SRT-4's that night that blew the doors off my car but my point of view is "It's still a Neon"
#44
07-27-2005, 10:29 PM
#45
07-27-2005, 10:55 PM
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#46
07-27-2005, 11:14 PM
RE: I found a dyno
Actual cost to date on the mods=$3000. I have not added any weight from the mods that I have done, if anything...decreased wieght. That being said, 186 ft from 70 mph is more than sufficient for my needs. The mods do decrease the time it takes to get up to speed. However, that is not proportional to the amount of time (or distance in this case) it will take to come to a stop. For a curb weight of 3570 lbs, the stopping distance of the TL far surpasses the ability of the V8 Dak measuring in at 229 ft from 70 as referenced by geewillikers. The suspension mods have already been done and the only tires that will go on my car are V-rated (to 149 mph) and since the car is governed at 147, I'll be fine. The common misconception about wheels is that they will improve performance. Not always the case. In most cases, people put the wheels that look nice on their car but don't acutally look into the specs on them. If they did that, they would find out that they added about 15 lbs per corner. They have successfully just decreased the acceleration and increased the stopping distance. That's not to say that you can't find performance wheels out there, but expect to fork over some $$ for that mod. It's not uncommon for members on the G35driver.com boards to post costs in excess of $1500/wheel. Thanks for your input though.
Summary...you will not decrease your braking ability by mods that do not add weight. The concern here is to improve the already frightening braking distances recorded for the Dak.
Summary...you will not decrease your braking ability by mods that do not add weight. The concern here is to improve the already frightening braking distances recorded for the Dak.
#47
07-28-2005, 12:37 AM
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#48
07-28-2005, 12:30 PM
RE: I found a dyno
I estimate that with the intake and exhaust opened up, I am probably at about 285-290 to the crank. That being said, I should be looking at about 235-240 to the wheels. I plan on spending the $50 and running it again, in 3rd gear of course.
#49
07-28-2005, 01:50 PM
RE: I found a dyno
ORIGINAL: GeeWillikers
I gotta get along side your TL-S J. We gotta know FOR SURE. hehe..
I gotta get along side your TL-S J. We gotta know FOR SURE. hehe..
TexasNative, as for net gain from your mods...I would have to say that you are looking at probably 20 at the crank. I am not 100% on that, but that would be my guess-timate