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The Classic (apparently) oil pressure issue

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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 11:36 AM
  #11  
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since the engine has likely a lot of miles, I am considering the 15/40 to try and get it some pressure.... is there a way of T-ing the line so could have the factory gauge (so the check light doesn't come on) AND mount a mechanical gauge somewhere inside for accuracy??? so I can monitor it?

(It's actually running around 14 lb warm now...) Or am I just wasting my time, since it's only running 14 lb, the engine probly junk huh!?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #12  
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You can do a "T". You should be able to find adapters at your local auto or hardware store.

While you may see the pressure increase, the problem is that the clearances are tighter so the oil film may not be able to get in between some parts as was designed. This will increase engine wear.

Your pressures are within spec. Use the heaviest recommended engine oil.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2011 | 10:58 PM
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Thicker oil wont help a bit, in fact it's harder on the pump,then if its cold out you wont have oil going where it's needed before damage happens if 15-40 was needed it would say to use it on the cap.Check out bobs the oil guy, anyone who say's use thicker oil should be drawn and quartered.butcher.gif
 
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 413maxwedge
Thicker oil wont help a bit, in fact it's harder on the pump,then if its cold out you wont have oil going where it's needed before damage happens if 15-40 was needed it would say to use it on the cap.Check out bobs the oil guy, anyone who say's use thicker oil should be drawn and quartered.Attachment 14615
In regards to the 15/40 not being suggested on the cap or book, of course... if the engine was new... then the factory spec oil would be perfect... but considering this engine likely has 150,000+ miles with bearing being work, things being worn in general, I'd assume the thicker oil would be fine... - All I know is I gotta do something... otherwise I'm gonna have to scrap this thing and send it to the junkyard... I need it to run, and winter's setting in... I need to drive it or scarp it, and I cant keep driving it with the oil pressure barely moving the needle!!! At least not keeping any sanity and being worried about breaking down every block I drive....

I do appreciate the help/suggestions... Seems like I am hearing people are saying it really shouldn't be under 40lbs @ idle warm... so something's definitely wrong... also... this this is gutless... has ZERO power. bogs down empty going up little hills in town... (I'm assuming with the low oil pressure and no power, the engine is just worn out, and I was sold a bad engine.)
 
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #15  
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Bill,

Dodge wrote the specs. If they say 6 psi is OK at idle, then you're within spec. You are fine at RPM as well. I agree, it seems low, but I didn't design the engine. Do you hear knocking? Any lifters tapping? If not, you're OK.

People can say lots of things, that's the forum, everyone has opinions. They didn't design it though. Personally, I'd like to see that 40 psi at idle too.

15w-40 is a thick oil to move, especially when cold. I wouldn't run anything more than 10w-30 in it, as per Dodge.

As to no power, have you checked compression? Any vacuum leaks? How's the cat? There are lots of reasons it may be "lacking."
 
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Old Nov 7, 2011 | 12:56 PM
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Hi thanks for the response I do appreciate the help, I am trying to just figure all this stuff out here...

- I don't seem to hear ticking, I was listening for it... if it is, it's not loud enough to hear inside the truck... I'm just looking at this from a logical standpoint, in that if it comes from the factory running 40-60, and it runs 14.... something's got to be wrong... I'd think that at 14psi, that's not even enough pressure to pump the oil to the heads? But then, it should be ticking if it's not. - I'm just having a hard time believing the factory saying it's ok at that low of pressure... when the factory gauge wont even read that low of pressure it falls to zero... (I've replaced the sensor twice, too before temporarily adding the mechanical gauge) I actually drove it to work today (11 miles) - scared the whole way of it blowing up...

as to the power... since I did just put the engine in, I replaced cracked vacuum hoses, and stuff and double triple checked... - exhaust is flowmaster with a test pipe... so definitely no clogged cat

my biggest concern of all is that the reason it has no oil pressure might also be the same reason it has no power, whatever that might be (worn out?)

I bought the engine from the only wrecking yard in town that sells parts for these... and they told me it has 40-60psi and 140lb compression in all 8, but they wouldnt tell me the mileage of the vehicle it came from, they claim mileage doesnt matter only compression and oil pressure do... (I disagree) - but at any rate, they lied about the oil pressure, cause I am watching it run at 14. - lesson learned to me about the salvage yards.
 
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