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Remote Start Help (01SilverCC?)

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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 06:21 PM
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Default Remote Start Help (01SilverCC?)

Ok so i just installed a remote start in my 2001 Dodge Dakota today. Its an Omega Mars-32+. I got it all hooked up perfectly except for the door lock/unlock, because there are (-) controlled unlike earlier models. I think I know what I have to do but im not 100%

I have 330ohm and 820ohm resistors along with 2 relays. To my understanding there is a White/Green wire in the kick panel that I splice into for the door lock and unlock. Its just one wire right?

Here is something I drew up does it look alright?
RS.png
Thanks
 
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 12:19 AM
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You have the correct resistor values. You only need to change the connection for terminal 87 on your relays. You should connect terminal 87 on both relays to chassis ground. Then when the relays are energized by the remote start it will give a ground through the resistors to the white/green lock/unlock wire. The white/green wire should be at the CTM, at connector #2, pin #10.

Terminal 30 is the output or common terminal on the relay. An easy way to remember it is whatever you put on terminal 87 will come out on terminal 30 when the relay is energized. When the relay is at rest, whatever is on terminal 87a will come out on terminal 30. That is why 30 is called a common terminal, it is a common connection between 87 and 87a.

Hope that helps.

Jimmy
 

Last edited by 01SilverCC; Dec 18, 2011 at 12:25 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 12:26 AM
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Im not following. I have my grounds on pins 30. Are you saying I need to move them over to 87, and connect to the white/green on pins 30?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 12:41 AM
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I would wire it this way:

On one relay connect the remote start lock wire to terminal 85

On the other relay connect the remote start unlock wire to its terminal 85

Then on both relays, connect

terminal 86 to 12 volts + fused at 15 amps

terminal 87 to chassis ground

terminal 30 on the lock relay connects to one leg of the 820 ohm resistor

terminal 30 on the unlock relay connects to one leg of the 330 ohm resistor

then twist both remaining legs of the resistors together and connect that to the white/green unlock wire at the CTM.

The truck has a one-wire multiplex door lock system that runs through the CTM. It takes one value of negative ground voltage for lock and more of a ground for unlock, but you must use relays to make it work. All you are using the relays for is to provide a stronger ground output to trigger the one-wire door lock system. The negative door lock and unlock outputs from your remote start are only about 500 milliamps and do not have enough of a ground output to operate the lock system in the truck.

Let me know if you need any more info, I am glad to help.

Jimmy
 

Last edited by 01SilverCC; Dec 18, 2011 at 12:44 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 12:51 AM
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Okay i think im following. Between 85 and 86 is the coil, so when i push the corresponding button on my kiosk, that will energize the coil which in turn closes the cenection between 87 and 30. (My relays don't have an 87a, but if it did.. while the relay is at rest the connection is made between 87a and 30) so with the cennection made between 87-30 it provides a ground to the white/green wire and hopefully performing the desired function.

Am I getting it, anything im leaving out?

I really appreciate this BTW, ive seen you help on a lot of RS threads over the years so I knew you would be able to help. Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 01:00 AM
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okay here is my updated schematic. Hows it look
RS-3.png
 
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 01:13 AM
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That is exactly right. Your diagram looks good.

85 and 86 are the positive and negative inputs to the coil. It doesn't matter which one gets power or ground, as long as you have power and ground across it so it energizes the coil. Putting ground or a negative on 85 and 12 volts or a positive input on 86 is kind of the understood way to do it and it is how I learned it too. It does not take much power or ground to energize the coil, that is why you can use a 500milliamp door lock output to energize the coil. The heavy-duty switching is done between 87 and 30 or 87a and 30. This is what makes relays so useful in handling high-current loads.

When the relay is energized, whatever is on 87 will be output to 30, but it will not work the other way around. If you had 12 volts or ground on 30 and energized the relay there would be no output on 87. You can look at 87 as being the "input" to a switch and 30 as being the "output" from a switch. That is all a relay is anyway, it is just an electromagnetic operated switch. The coil is the electromagnetic part.

What kind of relays are you using anyway? You should be using a plain Bosch 30 amp SPDT single pole double throw relay. Not having an 87a makes me wonder if you have the right style of relay. If it works after you rewire it, I guess it must be OK but the only 4-legged relays I know of are specialty relays, like for air conditioning and headlight circuits.

Jimmy
 

Last edited by 01SilverCC; Dec 18, 2011 at 01:15 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 01:19 AM
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I got thes at radioshack they are SPST 30/40 amp 12VDC. They were the only ones they had. on the package it says. "Ideal for switching automotive motor, lighting, audio, and security devices."

I just made it, and ill plug it in tomorrow to see how it works.

Thanks again
 
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 01:33 AM
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Your relays should be fine then. The SPST means single pole single throw. That is why there is no 87a. That will work fine for what you are using them for. They would not work in a reverse polarity application, like the door lock wiring on a lot of Fords and earlier Dakota's and Ram Pickups, but it should do fine in your Dakota. Let me know how it turns out and if you need any more info.

Jimmy
 
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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Welp, I just installed it and I am happy to say it works perfectly. A million times thanks!
 
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