outer/inner ball joints
#1
outer/inner ball joints
I got the truck up to 70 for the first time yesterday, and it seemed a little loose. So I checked and the outer ball joints are both sloppy. My question is, do the inners go bad often? Should I replace them too while I'm there, or just do the outers?
The ball joints seem to be fine. I can't feel any slop pushing at 12 & 6. But its very noticeable at 9 & 3.
Thanks!
The ball joints seem to be fine. I can't feel any slop pushing at 12 & 6. But its very noticeable at 9 & 3.
Thanks!
#2
Tie rods.
Get under the truck, place your hand on the tie rod end, give it a good shaking.
Same for the inner, give it a good shake to determine the culprit.
12/6 is wheel bearing, 9/3 is tie rods. Lift the control arm up until the tire is a few inches off the ground, pull out at the top of the tire, and pull out at the bottom checking for slop. Get a pry bar of some sort (or pipe, 2x4) and put it under the wheel and pry up to check your ball joints.
Get under the truck, place your hand on the tie rod end, give it a good shaking.
Same for the inner, give it a good shake to determine the culprit.
12/6 is wheel bearing, 9/3 is tie rods. Lift the control arm up until the tire is a few inches off the ground, pull out at the top of the tire, and pull out at the bottom checking for slop. Get a pry bar of some sort (or pipe, 2x4) and put it under the wheel and pry up to check your ball joints.
#3
I got the truck up to 70 for the first time yesterday, and it seemed a little loose. So I checked and the outer ball joints are both sloppy. My question is, do the inners go bad often? Should I replace them too while I'm there, or just do the outers?
The ball joints seem to be fine. I can't feel any slop pushing at 12 & 6. But its very noticeable at 9 & 3.
Thanks!
The ball joints seem to be fine. I can't feel any slop pushing at 12 & 6. But its very noticeable at 9 & 3.
Thanks!
#4
do it all if you can
do it all if you can tie rod ends, ball joints arm bushings and torson links.
First find out what all needs replacing post that and go from there.
arm bushing shouldnt get replaced if still tight because they are the hardest to do unless you remove them and take to a shop that can replace the bushing for you most of the time they are still in good shape.
To replace all the ball joints the torson links and tie rod ends will run you $280 in parts if you do all the labor.
Is your truck a 4X4 or 2 WD 4X4 are harder and more $$$ than a 2 WD
First find out what all needs replacing post that and go from there.
arm bushing shouldnt get replaced if still tight because they are the hardest to do unless you remove them and take to a shop that can replace the bushing for you most of the time they are still in good shape.
To replace all the ball joints the torson links and tie rod ends will run you $280 in parts if you do all the labor.
Is your truck a 4X4 or 2 WD 4X4 are harder and more $$$ than a 2 WD
#5
Its a 2wd (quad cab, 4.7l sport)
The inner ball joints are just $8 each, so I guess I'll do them whether or not they're bad.
I thought when I shook at 12 & 6, that was testing the ball joints. But it sounds like I need to pry on it with a bar?
I'm probably getting close to $500 in parts on a truck I've owned a month and know almost nothing about. Except I do know it still needs brakes, rotors, tires, a bumper, and a gallon of paint.
If the ball joints need done, I want to do them now. If they're fine, it sounds like a hassle I'd rather avoid. This is the 3rd vehicle in a 2 driver house. I bought it for hunting, and driving in bad weather. I doubt it will get over 5k/year. So whatever suspension parts are fine now, should be fine for a very long time.
The inner ball joints are just $8 each, so I guess I'll do them whether or not they're bad.
I thought when I shook at 12 & 6, that was testing the ball joints. But it sounds like I need to pry on it with a bar?
I'm probably getting close to $500 in parts on a truck I've owned a month and know almost nothing about. Except I do know it still needs brakes, rotors, tires, a bumper, and a gallon of paint.
If the ball joints need done, I want to do them now. If they're fine, it sounds like a hassle I'd rather avoid. This is the 3rd vehicle in a 2 driver house. I bought it for hunting, and driving in bad weather. I doubt it will get over 5k/year. So whatever suspension parts are fine now, should be fine for a very long time.
#6
well find out for sure what you need
well find out for sure what you need for the front be it all ball joints or just one side only replace what is needed or do what I did and replace the ball joints on the side that was in the worst shape easier that way then I’m planning on doing the other side next year.
Tie rod ends are easy to replace do both if both bad.
Torson links are very easy
Tie rod ends are easy to replace do both if both bad.
Torson links are very easy