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1998 dodge dakota 3.9 v6 starting problems

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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 04:02 PM
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Default 1998 dodge dakota 3.9 v6 starting problems

I have a 1998 dodge dakota 3.9 v6 5 speed 2wd and every time i go to start it it takes about 5-10 secs of cranking to start. it will always start but takes a while and im not sure what the problems is but before i go put $150 into a new starter i was wondering if anyone knew if this was a simply sensor or anything like that.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 04:31 PM
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It sounds like you're giving the starter a workout, but it doesn't sound like the starter is the problem.
 
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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I would check your crank shaft position sensor, my dad used to have a 97 jeep cherokee that had starting issues where it would take a while to start and we replaced that sensor and it helped it out
 
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 11:57 PM
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Alot of things could be contributing to your problem , not necessarily in this order but #1 fuel pressure low/ leaking injectors , #2 Idle Air Control Valve sticking/not working , #3 old/worn cap-rotor-wires & plugs , #4 vacuum leaks , #5 intake belly pan gasket blown , #6 clogged air filter , #7 old/weak battery , #8 blockage in the exhaust system , and the list could go on ! Start with the cheaper/basics things first , replace the regular maintenance /wear items if you havent already , and then get a haynes manual and use the process of elimination on the rest of it and hopefully you`ll get it straightened out and not cost you alot of money in the end .
 
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 12:38 AM
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Could be a small leak in the fuel line, causing the fuel to leak down back into the tank. Next time before you start it, turn your key from the off position, to Acc on (just before cranking), then off, repeat 2-3 times, then try to start.

If it starts immediately after doing that, get underneath and follow your fuel lines. If you don't see anything, it's something internal to the pump causing it.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by PonchoRob
Alot of things could be contributing to your problem , not necessarily in this order but #1 fuel pressure low/ leaking injectors , #2 Idle Air Control Valve sticking/not working , #3 old/worn cap-rotor-wires & plugs , #4 vacuum leaks , #5 intake belly pan gasket blown , #6 clogged air filter , #7 old/weak battery , #8 blockage in the exhaust system , and the list could go on ! Start with the cheaper/basics things first , replace the regular maintenance /wear items if you havent already , and then get a haynes manual and use the process of elimination on the rest of it and hopefully you`ll get it straightened out and not cost you alot of money in the end .
So I am having the same starting issue if I turn the key on and count to 10 it seems to start a lot better and it starts right up on the second crank but sometimes sputters. I have the quad cab 5.9l 2000.
I am thinking my issue is with the fuel pump or injectors? Does anyone know what it will take to fix this? Thx
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 10:18 AM
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Will this give me a code if I run a diagnostics?
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 02:00 PM
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The fuel pressure regulator is bad. What happens is when the truck is parked and engine turned off, the fuel pressure regulator is supposed to keep the fuel lines primed and pressurized with fuel so fuel is present at the injectors next time the truck is started. When the check valve in the regulator goes bad all the fuel bleeds back down out of the fuel lines. That is why the truck starts better if you leave the key on for a few seconds before starting. The fuel pump has to first prime and pressurize the fuel line before the truck will start. The fuel pressure regulator is an internal part of the fuel pump assembly. The only way to fix the problem is to replace the fuel pump.

You can buy a cheap fuel pressure test gauge at Harbor Freight or maybe a parts store. I don't know the specs for fuel pressure in a 2000 but at idle it is probably mid-40 to mid-50 psi. A Haynes Book or maybe this site will have the exact specs. With the engine running you can check fuel pressure at the test port on the fuel rail. Leave the gauge connected and turn off the truck. If the pressure on the gauge drops below 30 psi in less than 5 minutes, the regulator is bad. This problem usually occurs around 125,000 miles, give or take a few thousand.

I don't think the bad regulator will set a trouble code, because it happens when the ignition is off. The PCM will monitor fuel pressure only when the truck is running so I would think there would be no codes. The gauge is the best way to tell and the Haynes Book has the detailed instructions on checking your fuel pressure.

Jimmy
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 01SilverCC
The fuel pressure regulator is bad. What happens is when the truck is parked and engine turned off, the fuel pressure regulator is supposed to keep the fuel lines primed and pressurized with fuel so fuel is present at the injectors next time the truck is started. When the check valve in the regulator goes bad all the fuel bleeds back down out of the fuel lines. That is why the truck starts better if you leave the key on for a few seconds before starting. The fuel pump has to first prime and pressurize the fuel line before the truck will start. The fuel pressure regulator is an internal part of the fuel pump assembly. The only way to fix the problem is to replace the fuel pump.

You can buy a cheap fuel pressure test gauge at Harbor Freight or maybe a parts store. I don't know the specs for fuel pressure in a 2000 but at idle it is probably mid-40 to mid-50 psi. A Haynes Book or maybe this site will have the exact specs. With the engine running you can check fuel pressure at the test port on the fuel rail. Leave the gauge connected and turn off the truck. If the pressure on the gauge drops below 30 psi in less than 5 minutes, the regulator is bad. This problem usually occurs around 125,000 miles, give or take a few thousand.

I don't think the bad regulator will set a trouble code, because it happens when the ignition is off. The PCM will monitor fuel pressure only when the truck is running so I would think there would be no codes. The gauge is the best way to tell and the Haynes Book has the detailed instructions on checking your fuel pressure.

Jimmy
40-50 is correct.

bought my gauge from O'R.
 
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