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Bad blower motor?
#1
Bad blower motor?
Has anyone here had to replace their blower motor? I put in a new Mopar OEM blower motor resistor about 4 years ago, it has been working OK until last week. I noticed when I first turn on the fan to low or the second speed, it takes it about 5 or 10 seconds for any air to come out of the vents. What air flow is there on low or second speed is pretty weak. The third and highest speeds seem to work OK but they are not as strong as it used to be either. Has anybody here had their fan do that?
I always thought the motor either runs or it doesn't. Is there such a thing as a weak motor? I have heard of bad brushes in the motor but I always though those just made the motor not run at all or maybe have intermittent operation.
Thanks for any help on this. I am going to check the resistor and fan motor out tomorrow.
I always thought the motor either runs or it doesn't. Is there such a thing as a weak motor? I have heard of bad brushes in the motor but I always though those just made the motor not run at all or maybe have intermittent operation.
Thanks for any help on this. I am going to check the resistor and fan motor out tomorrow.
#2
The 4th speed on mine hasn't work in a few years. I thought it would lead to the other speeds going as well but they haven't. I haven't really bothered fixing it because I never really used the 4th speed anyway, heck I hardly use the 3rd. I was just concerned it may lead to the other speeds going but its been a few years and they all work good.
#4
all my speeds work at differing intervals but my far left and right vents dont seem to blow nearly as much as my center ones, im thinking about replacing mine as well, plus i need to do something about my heater core either find a clog in the drain line or replace it, got some wet pass floor mats every now and then when id run my ac
#5
My 3rd and 4th speeds still work OK but don't seem to be as strong as before. It's 1st and 2nd that have hardly any output. It also takes a long time when I turn the fan to 1st or 2nd speed for what litle air flow they provide to move at all.
I am going to get into it a little later on today. Check the current draw of the fan and see what the resistor pack looks like.
Thanks.
Jimmy
I am going to get into it a little later on today. Check the current draw of the fan and see what the resistor pack looks like.
Thanks.
Jimmy
#6
Wish for a better way
I would like to open my dash up myself and do some work on the HVAC system. I know about the with pictures walk through on how to remove the HVAC this one http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98729 but I think there is a better way of doing this.
It would be great if someone could document a new how to of this much needed repair for many of us suffering HVAC issues.
That walk through is good but is there a better way/easier way of accomplishing this procedure.
I’m sure we all would love to know if there is an easier way of removing the dash and post it for all to use with good pictures.
It would be a great idea if someone offered complete rebuilt HVAC boxes for the Dakota all new cores foam seals and new blower and all the other things that would be needed so it’s like replacing the whole unit in one swoop BAM it’s done and would not need working on for many year to come.
It would be great if someone could document a new how to of this much needed repair for many of us suffering HVAC issues.
That walk through is good but is there a better way/easier way of accomplishing this procedure.
I’m sure we all would love to know if there is an easier way of removing the dash and post it for all to use with good pictures.
It would be a great idea if someone offered complete rebuilt HVAC boxes for the Dakota all new cores foam seals and new blower and all the other things that would be needed so it’s like replacing the whole unit in one swoop BAM it’s done and would not need working on for many year to come.
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 12-31-2011 at 11:54 AM.
#7
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#8
One of the fuses on my Fluke meter is blown, and no store in my town carries the right fuse for it. I can not check the current draw of the blower until I can replace the fuse in my meter. I have no burned wires or connections at the resistor harness connector and the fan itself runs in all 4 speeds with no noise. I took the fan out and did not find any leaves or other obstructions in the squirrel cage. There is no wobble or anything in the fan as it spins and it does not get hot, or even warm when it is running. All of that makes me think the fan itself is probably OK, so I decided to shotgun it and bought a new resistor pack at Advance. It seems to be doing better now, all 4 fan speeds feel like they are a somewhat stronger than before but I need to drive the truck and find out for sure I guess. Hopefully I can find the fuse I need in Orlando this weekend and then check the current draw of the fan. If the fan checks out OK but I still have air flow problems then I guess the only other thing it could be is the fan **** on the control panel. Thanks for the help here.
Jimmy
Jimmy
#9
An update..My Fluke meter only tests up to 15 amps of current. That will not do for testing a blower fan, they draw more current than that. Yesterday I used a Sears store credit/exchange card I had from a Christmas gift I had returned (the gift was a set of Gear Wrenches that I already have) and bought this clamp-style ammeter:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1
It will test up to 400 amps DC, plus it has a volt meter, diode/continuity test and a temperature test on it. I got a good price on it, it was on sale for $53.99 and I used an online discount code and knocked another 5 bucks off, paid online and picked it up at Sears yesterday.
I used my new clamp ammeter today and found these current amounts on the positive wire of my blower fan with the AC on:
lowest speed 4.5 amps
2nd highest speed 8.5 amps
3rd highest speed 12.4 amps
4th highest speed it read 20.4 amps
I checked the readings twice to be sure it was correct.
The blower fan has a 40 amp fuse in the Power Distribution Center. None of my Dodge manuals list the current draw of the blower fan. I read online that 20 amps of current with a fan on high speed is about normal. Hopefully the new resistor pack was all I needed to fix the fan problem.
That Sears ammeter works pretty well and has a decent price. I hope I don't need it again for a long time though..
Thanks for the help on this.
Jimmy
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1
It will test up to 400 amps DC, plus it has a volt meter, diode/continuity test and a temperature test on it. I got a good price on it, it was on sale for $53.99 and I used an online discount code and knocked another 5 bucks off, paid online and picked it up at Sears yesterday.
I used my new clamp ammeter today and found these current amounts on the positive wire of my blower fan with the AC on:
lowest speed 4.5 amps
2nd highest speed 8.5 amps
3rd highest speed 12.4 amps
4th highest speed it read 20.4 amps
I checked the readings twice to be sure it was correct.
The blower fan has a 40 amp fuse in the Power Distribution Center. None of my Dodge manuals list the current draw of the blower fan. I read online that 20 amps of current with a fan on high speed is about normal. Hopefully the new resistor pack was all I needed to fix the fan problem.
That Sears ammeter works pretty well and has a decent price. I hope I don't need it again for a long time though..
Thanks for the help on this.
Jimmy
#10