The idle problem seems to happen even when pcm is in closed loop. When it is not monitoring o2 sensors. Seems less when engine has completely warmed up still there. Thats why I'm leaning to the temp sensor giving a false reading. To warm in my case leaning out, screwing with the timming and lowering idle speed when engine is cold. O2 have also been changed out at some point and they are also responding on scope. I'm changing the water pump this weekend due to a bad bearing will change temp sensor and t stat.

 

Hi, there is no mention of you testing or replacing the O2 sensor(s). At the risk of repeating what worked for me, i'd replace both O2's and see...

 

Are you the Original owner?

If not maybe the throttle body was modified or it’s a different model than stock an aftermarket performance model.

Or some other mod to the system some people put up with a rough idle for more performance.

Check your TB for model # and see if it matches what should be the stock TB or maybe they changed just the idle chamber and IAC

Or maybe they put in a diff cam plenum so on so on so on many things they may have changed.

 

Yeahhhhh way to go.

Your problem really seems to be the O2's sensors...( replace both any way, in the service manual the recommend to replace them when you reach 100,000km


There is a file that i found about Dakota / Durango simples MOD to make it run better...

I will try to post it soon

I also installed a Tailgate Lock and it works wellllllllllll...

simple like hell to install and works great.

Now, my next issue is POOR heating , it gets warm, (195) on the tem gauge BUT if i run heater fan to MAX, it is not pushing HIGH heat from all the traps... could it be clogged or else ?? i doknow ( don't know )

Cheers.

 

the heaters suck on dakota's had a 92 had crappy heat as well it got better just before the motor crapped out on it.

 

do you lost power on your dak...????

 

no my dakota has enough power at acceleration and cruising so no problem there. Its an automatic though

 

One suggestion for your crappy heater, do a back flush on your heater core. Took me maybe an hour (reading how to's and whatnot). You basically pull the heater core pipes off where they circulate to the engine and hook them up to the hose and flush it, keep an eye on what comes out, then change the direction of the water a few times. I flipped it 5 times before the water ran clear through it. I have a 98 v6 3.9 and the heater sucked, did this and a bunch of dark brown fluid and little bits of rubber came out. I'm guessing the previous owner let his coolant go acidic and it ate a few gaskets.

 

so a little more goodness on this thing I took off throttle body this weekend and also did the seafoam through the manifold. Anyway on removal of the throttle body inoticed a bunch of carbon around the intake ports on the manifold I fliped over t.b. and saw that there was alot of carbon comming from the port that isconnected to the purge solinoid. This is the second time in months that t.b. was removed for cleaning. Was wondering if purge solinoid is junk or posible problem with charcoal canister. Thanks

 

+1mili on the back flush I had same problem did that.. these dodge's have crap for water pumps, they break down really easy, my brother had a few dodge too.. I was always the Ford guy and He was the Chevy/Dodge guy.. He always had issues with his water pump and heater core clogging up.

Also the bearings are **** in these pumps.. get a good quality aftermarket brand ifyou have to replace your pump.

Mine was replaced by previous owner; guess what.. its a POS and causes my pully and fan to be at a slight angle as it turns.. ROFL!

I have to replace the hole damn pump.. because its a cheap *** part made in china most likely.