Failed u-joint carnage...some help please?
#1
Failed u-joint carnage...some help please?
2003 Dak 4X4 Quad cab with the 4.7, 45RFE trans, and 244 transfer case (AWD). The front driveshaft does not have a CV joint...u-joints only.
Coming home Friday night I had to punch it after slowing down for the person in front of me pulling off the road (I was afraid the woman on her cell phone behind me was about to rear-end me). As the tranny shifted from first to second, there was a tremendous boom and horrible banging noise from under the truck.
After coasting to the shoulder, I tried to shift to "Park"...no go; the shifter went loose. I shut down and looked under to see what had happened. The front driveshaft u-joint next to the transfer case had grenaded. The shaft stayed trapped between the transmission crossmember and the floor and beat hell out of a bunch of stuff. I had my truck flat-bedded to my house.
I managed to bend the shift cable bracket back to where I could push the cable back in and get gears again. I also removed the yokes from the front axle and transfer case, so if I can fix the other problems I'll at least be able to drive around in 4Hi (albeit only in rear wheel drive) until I can get a new front driveshaft. I'm looking at a remanufactured Cardone unit for around $270.
Now the questions I have are these:
The hard fuel line inside the driver's side framerail that plugs into the braided line leading to the engine compartment is flattened and broke-a$$. Is that considered the front fuel line or rear? (I figure it would be much better to drop the tank and replace the whole line than try to scab in a repair section.)
The rear brake line is also kaput. What's the verdict...repair or replace it? If I'm going to have the tank out anyway, I figured it wouldn't be too big a hassle. And does anyone know if Dodge sells the complete pre-bent assembly or am I going to have to make my own?
I plan on replacing the rear u-joints while I'm under there. I usually use Spicer units, but does anyone have recommendations for stronger or more durable joints?
I sure appreciate any and all answers. With the weather blowing in right now, I 'spect I'm going to need my truck sooner rather than later...my Charger doesn't handle a foot of snow too well.
Coming home Friday night I had to punch it after slowing down for the person in front of me pulling off the road (I was afraid the woman on her cell phone behind me was about to rear-end me). As the tranny shifted from first to second, there was a tremendous boom and horrible banging noise from under the truck.
After coasting to the shoulder, I tried to shift to "Park"...no go; the shifter went loose. I shut down and looked under to see what had happened. The front driveshaft u-joint next to the transfer case had grenaded. The shaft stayed trapped between the transmission crossmember and the floor and beat hell out of a bunch of stuff. I had my truck flat-bedded to my house.
I managed to bend the shift cable bracket back to where I could push the cable back in and get gears again. I also removed the yokes from the front axle and transfer case, so if I can fix the other problems I'll at least be able to drive around in 4Hi (albeit only in rear wheel drive) until I can get a new front driveshaft. I'm looking at a remanufactured Cardone unit for around $270.
Now the questions I have are these:
The hard fuel line inside the driver's side framerail that plugs into the braided line leading to the engine compartment is flattened and broke-a$$. Is that considered the front fuel line or rear? (I figure it would be much better to drop the tank and replace the whole line than try to scab in a repair section.)
The rear brake line is also kaput. What's the verdict...repair or replace it? If I'm going to have the tank out anyway, I figured it wouldn't be too big a hassle. And does anyone know if Dodge sells the complete pre-bent assembly or am I going to have to make my own?
I plan on replacing the rear u-joints while I'm under there. I usually use Spicer units, but does anyone have recommendations for stronger or more durable joints?
I sure appreciate any and all answers. With the weather blowing in right now, I 'spect I'm going to need my truck sooner rather than later...my Charger doesn't handle a foot of snow too well.
#4
its amazing how few look under
It’s amazing how few look under their 4X4 it should be a one or two a year inspection of all power train parts a 4X4 needs way more care and maintenance than a standard two wheel truck.
It’s so important if the 4X4 is used in 4X4 or getting old to get these inspections done on a regular schedule.
It’s so important if the 4X4 is used in 4X4 or getting old to get these inspections done on a regular schedule.
#5
Yup.. nothing like going out in some mud or w/e off road and something breaks because it was not Greeced or maintained properly.
Hell I went through and checked my Jeep every time I went out just to be safe; little overly cautious but its no fun getting stuck in the mud with a busted Axel or bearing or some shiz like that.
Hell I went through and checked my Jeep every time I went out just to be safe; little overly cautious but its no fun getting stuck in the mud with a busted Axel or bearing or some shiz like that.
#6
#7
It’s amazing how few look under their 4X4 it should be a one or two a year inspection of all power train parts a 4X4 needs way more care and maintenance than a standard two wheel truck.
It’s so important if the 4X4 is used in 4X4 or getting old to get these inspections done on a regular schedule.
It’s so important if the 4X4 is used in 4X4 or getting old to get these inspections done on a regular schedule.
Yeah, I should've looked it over (under?), but I just bought it a couple weeks ago and I've only been driving it on the pavement five miles each way to work. There's also ice, snow, and mud in the yard so I wasn't in a rush to grub around. Now I'm paying the price...literally!
Just ordered the two hard lines (brake and fuel) this morning. About $130 for the two. Add in the driveshaft and you're looking at four hundred reasons why 98Dak's advice is sound.
I'll be replacing the rear driveshaft U-joints in the next couple weeks, too, even though they look fine and have zero play. They're some generic units and I can throw some forged units in there for about $50. Keep 'em full of good synthetic grease and that's one less thing to worry about for boucoup miles.
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#8