to you guys who are running your lifts. i got re indexed keys put on awhile back and rides pretty rough as in there is only 1/4 springiness in the front end. for example the truck literally bounces if i dont come to a dead stop when approaching speed bumps. would longer shocks help with making it less stiff or will i be forced to lower my front end. treads are showing 2.25 inches at top of cross member at the nut holding it. what is the length of threads you guys have? only issue is lowering it could cause it to rub again with my wider tires.

 

you could do suspension coil spacers to give u some added height and then go with a real good quality shock. Skyjacker had a good rep. There are alot of others out there. Bilstein is highly reccomended as a shock that gives a shooth ride. OME (old man emu) is another i've heard of as highly reccomended for a smoother ride. I have rough country on my jeep and it bounces over bumps. I personally like skyjacker but everyone has there own opinion. I'd just look at those 3 and see whats in your price range and suppose to give a smooth ride.

 

i dont have coil springs. i was looking into the skyjacker 7000s dunno if i need a longer shock thhough with a 2 inch raise?

 

On a torsion bar front end, unless you have a long travel setup then you only need the stock length shock bc the bump stops limit travel. Your distance of travel never changes when cranking the tbars, it just rides higher in the range of motion(more up travel and less down travel). Now if you added blocks in the back then you "may" could benefit from a little longer shock.

 

just got the skyjacker hydros and there aweful....had them on for a few weeks and already looking for a new set. on a old paved road its hell.

 

woah, i totally skimmed over the possibility that bump stops could cause a rough ride. the truck is resting on the upper bump stops. is there a way i can cut that whole bracket off to give me travel and just rig up higher upper bump stops?? i really dont want to lower her in fear of rubbing. ill take some pics tomorrow to explain

 

No you cannot remove that whole piece as it is there for a reason. You can cut your bumpstop down a little bit maybe to give it some room. You can buy low profile bumpstops on some trucks, not sure on the Daks. You will exceed the rang of motion on your CV shafts if you go any higher. That is why the bumpstops are there and that is 100% why your truck is riding rough. Unless your shocks are shot then new ones will not make a whole lot of difference most likely. You ususally want about 1/2in between the upper control arm and the bump stop.

 

nope definitely on the bump stops which rolls out the shock cause for better ride. so i wont be able to chop the bump stops without huge issues? only solution is to lower my front end to give myself a 1/2 gap between control arm and the bump stop?

 

You can cut it in two but i cant promise you wont have CV bind. I went through this with my 97 Nissan 4wd and used low profile bumpstops but you could just cut the stock ones in half. One difference is that on my Nissan it had manual locking hubs that could be unlocked so as not to make the CVs turn all the time. But i think that the Dakota Cvs run all the time even if not engaged to the axle. In turn if they were in a bind then it would cause a problem all of the time. Im presuming your tires wear on the inside of the tread more right now too? Have you tried trimming some of the plastic on the inside of the fender wells? I leveled my truck out with now lift and have 285s Kelley Safari TSRs on mine and have very minor rubbing when flexed and the wheel is turned.

 

when I tightened my torsion bars I didn't re-key it and got 2 in out of it and I haven't noticed a ride difference at all and it has been almost a year now. When I get out of class I can look at mine to see how far I am from my bump stops if that would help?