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Rod knock.

Old Apr 12, 2012 | 02:44 PM
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Default Rod knock.

So need a new connecting rod bearing and most likely a crankshaft. Haven't pulled the engine out yet. Anyone want to just drop some opinions on whatelse to look at. I'm hoping I can sneak by with just the crankshaft. Its a 3.9l engine. All stock incase that matters.

Just looking for some opinions and thoughts on other possible problems and what to look at once we get the engine out. Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 03:49 PM
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before you take it a part you need some in formation. here is some that might help. crank dia rod journal dia 2.l124-2.125 rod journal bearing clearance 0.0005-0.0022. main journal dia 2.4995-2.5005 main journal bearing clearance no.1 0.0005-0.0015 no2-4 0.0005-0.0020. this is a 2001 dakota V-6 3.9. just be careful.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 09:31 AM
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Well we went to start taking the engine out yesterday and after struggling with the fan for abit we finally got the protective plastics off. Then went to drop the transmission out so we can pull the engine and we got a bolt thats rusted to it. Started rounding the bolt when we went to go and take it off. So now were at a bit of a pickle. Tried lubricant and all and still can't get it to loosen up. We don't have much tool wise besides old fashion sockets and wrenches and elbow grease. So not sure what could help get rid of this bolt.

Any ideas?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 02:17 PM
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Soak it with some good penetrating oil, let it sit a day or overnight, then put some heat on it.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 05:40 PM
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NOTE: if you use a torch to heat the bolt head to red hot, you need to replace the bolt. the heat will mess up the heat treat on the bolt head.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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I recently pulled engine and trans together from a 94. I put a rubber mat under the rear shaft to prevent damage and had the truck up on jack stands. It went back in the same way. On rebuilding the engine, if the oil was low enough to loosen a rod, the cam bearings should be replaced. I didn't do it one time and regretted it. Also check the cam for wear and replace all freeze plugs while you have it out.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 06:09 PM
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if you can get them use brass freeze plugs. with a sealant on the edges of the freeze plugs
 
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 12:30 AM
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Were gonna get an air socket out there this week to try and get the bolt if not prob do the heating of the bolt. I was told Seafoam might be good to try too. So idk im just hoping to get this engine pulled by the end of the week. Sooner i can see if its a minor fix or a whole engine rebuild the better. Money is tight and I still have a car i need to sell but I need to know what i need first.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 04:30 PM
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Bolt still won't budge after sitting with lubricant applied. Air wrench or heat will be tried soon. Just hoping I won't have to cut it out and retreading. This is slowly becoming one annoying project haha.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 09:37 AM
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air wrench is just gonna finish it off... You using a 6 point or 12 point? metric vs standard? Id heat it before I thought about using air...
 
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