What are those inserts what do they do? Keep heat away from the spark plug boots.

If they can be removed I would say do it probably what’s going on is the rust is pushing in those inserts kind of like tree roots push sidewalks apart.

So pull it out scrape all the rust out get the plug out insert a new plug to keep the nasty rust from getting inside the engine then re install the sleeve.

Well what do you know I just passed the 1001 posts mark

 

I was going to make mention of that, I should have. CONGRATS!


Yes - from what I understand, those insert/sleeve-things help with cutting down the heat on the wire boots and they also give a little more stability when installing/uninstalling plugs.
I understand what you're saying about the rust probably being the culprit in regards to it pushing the sleeve in. Though, the metal that the sleeve is made from is fairly thick (for what it is).
As much as I don't want to; I think I'm going to hold off in pulling the cylinder head off for now. I don't have a place to work on it and my Uncle (he usually helps me with issues of this scale) doesn't want to, "open up that can of worms."

How'd you make out with your A/C controller?
I saw that Pic that you shot for me (thank you for that). Turns out, the cable for the hot/cold **** needs to be replaced and the vent doors are also shot on mine. I saw a video on how to replace the doors but I really don't want to go through all of that myself - too many things to go wrong.
.

 

I don’t think you need to pull the head off to remove the sparkplug sleeve/insert?

I guess the first thing to do is find out if those are replaceable and removable call a dealership about it but they should come out.

I’m guessing get a good pair of vise grips and work the thing out give it a few good whacks with a hammer that may loosen them up then use the vise grips to extract the bad one.

They are probably press fitted in.

Yes my A/C controller is working great and I found out they come apart very easy and parts can be swapped in/out as needed they are very simple inside and three parts top is the fan switch next down is the vacuum controller can’t do much with that it’s a sealed unit the bottom heat setting one is just a cable actuator and is the blend door I believe

How do you know its the cable?

Maybe it popped off in the dash did you pull off the one dash part and then unscrew the A/C controller and look at the back of it to see if it came undone back there?

Its easy to do.

 

I wanted to make sure I so I checked out my Haynes repair manual and it states, "1. The Spark Plugs are threaded into the cylinder heads, adjacent to the exhaust ports. " It looks like taking off the heads are my only other viable option.

I took out one other the other plugs to get a better look at the sleeve/insert and I wiggled it around (without getting too-too rough with it) and it was solid - didn't budge a millimeter. So, I agree, they have to be pressed in there and I bet they're mushroomed out on the other side when they're pressed in. I dunno.

I dealt a lot of damage to the sleeve that the problem plug is in by trying to pull, twist, etc and by trying to hammer-on a socket that I tapered with the grinder. I don't want to mar a good one; especially if I can't get a replacement. My CEL is back on so I have to put this issue on the back burner until I get sorted.

Glad to hear that the A/C controller worked out. I'm certain you'll NEED A/C in AZ. The cable that you are talking about, does that happen to run to the heat/cool ****? Just curious...

Also, I have extended family out in the Peoria area. That anywhere near you?

 

98dakaz, you like to go way over the top on every fix you suggest. Seriously, cool it bro.

Macgollabhride, put an extension on your spark plug socket, and tap it on with a rubber mallet little by little, give it a spin so you get it solid on the plug. The heat shields are fine, don't remove them or you'll be replacing wires every oil change.

 

Ha Ha Ha don’t know what to think of that???

To each his own no one has to do anything I post here so ignore my posts or read them it’s a free world still that I know of.

As long as I’m nice and polite I’m cool something you should think about.

This is the back of the A/C controller and the temp slider/switch.

 

I already did what you explained and beyond. I went as far as sacrificing a socket by tapering the tip on the grinder in hopes that it would wedge onto the plug after smacking it with a plastic and brass mallet. No-go, nothing.

I appreciate your input but 98dakaz is totally on the right track and he backed up my theory on how the heat shield sleeve may be fitted.
And totally-yea - If those heat shields are removed, I'll be replacing wires far sooner than I'll be changing the oil.

The plug is still firing so, this issue will have to wait until I figure out my CEL issue.

 

You know looking at your pic's again It looks like the previous owner was trying to extract that one also the way it’s so bent up I wonder how old that sparkplug is it could be in bad shape.

I like your seat fix but why are these seats getting so trashed my seats are original and still look new.

Well maybe my seats are in better shape because I had my seats redone the first year I owned it took it to a custom shop and they inserted cloth over the certain areas and they inserted more foam for me so my bench seats look kind of custom.

 

Exactly what I'm talking about! When I pulled off my dash bezel and removed the HVAC **** plate, THAT cable was all backed up, rusted and frayed. I don't have any work scheduled tomorrow so I'll see if the cable is connected to the other side, where you showed me. Either way the heat/cool cable, in my truck, is in obvious need of replacement. Yours looks brand new compared to my rusted Medusa cable. I should have taken a picture of it - it's in mighty bad shape.

Did you have to go to the dealer for this cable?

Thanks for another home run 98dakaz!

 

No my cable is the original cable I didn’t need to replace it just unconnected it from my old A/C controller and connect it with the ebay one I got for $30 to un hook it underneath it you will see a tab use a flat screwdriver to push it in that unhooks it so you can pull it free.

I can take a pic of this tab if needed but it’s very obvious if you look carefully

Its way easy to swap out took me 20 minutes at most.